What's going on everybody, I'm Johnny Brooke, welcome back to another Crafted Workshop video.
In today's video, I'm going to show you how to build my biggest piece to date, this credenza
bookcase combo.
This is two separate pieces, just in case you were wondering right off the bat. Obviously,
this is way too big to move if it was one single piece, kind of a cool modular system.
It's all built out of Purebond Walnut veneer plywood, love the way it came out. I did some
hardwood edge banding to cover up the edges of the plywood, and I really like the way
that looks.
Just overall super happy with the way this project came together, so without further
adieu, let's go ahead and get started with the build.
To break down the plywood sheets, I used a combination of tools, first starting at the
table saw to break down the larger pieces.
After ripping the pieces to length, I crosscut them to width using my Rockler Crosscut Sled.
For some of the longer pieces that were too long to manage with the crosscut sled, I used
my track saw and cut the matching pieces at the same time to make sure they were the exact
same size.
The side panels of the bookcase section have a decorative curved section cut out, so next
I worked on getting that cut to shape. I traced the curve using a compass and then ripped
a straight line at the table saw to the point where the curve started.
Next, I used my jigsaw to cut the curve, but I was left with an uneven curve and just couldn't
get it dialed in by hand to where I was happy with it. The human eye is really good at seeing
when circular objects aren't perfectly round, so I was having a tough time with this.
Then I remembered I have an X-Carve, so I used that to knock out a quick curve template.
I trimmed off the excess from the side panel and then attached the template with double
stick tape, and then used a flush trim bit in my router to route the side panel flush
with the template. This left me with an absolutely perfect curve.
With the curve cut, I ripped the straight section flush with the curve at the table
saw off camera, and then could create the matching panel using the completed panel as
a template. I cut away the excess using a jigsaw and then clamped the two panels together
and used the router to flush cut the edges.
Once the edges were cut, I came back with a sanding block to remove any tool marks and
get the edges perfectly even.
With all of the pieces cut out, next I needed to start getting the plywood edges covered
with edge banding. In the past, I've always used peel and stick edge banding, but it can
be really fragile and has a tendency to crack, and can just kind of be a pain to work with.
On this build, I decided to cut my own hardwood edge banding, which I did at the bandsaw.
Each strip was roughly 3/16" thick, which gave me plenty of material to work with.
After ripping the strips at the bandsaw, I smoothed them all out at the drum sander and
brought them all down to a consistent thickness.
If you don't have a drum sander, you could rip these strips at the table saw and they
would be plenty smooth enough for this type of application.
To attach the edge banding to the panels, I used glue and clamped the banding in place
using Rockler's Bandy Clamps. I thought I had way too many of these things but ended
up using every single one of them multiple times on this build, there was just a ton
of edge banding to glue on.
As you can see, the edge banding was left about ¼" wider than the plywood, to leave
plenty of overhang on each side, so after the glue dried, I needed to flush up the edge
banding.
I used a trim router and a spiral flush trim bit to do this, and found this awesome Little
Lipper attachment from FastCap for my trim router, and that allowed me to run it on edge.
This was the perfect tool for the job and I was able to perfectly trim all of the edge
banding super quick.
The only tricky part of the edge banding process was the curved edges of the side panels. The
3/16" edge banding was too thick for this, so I brought it down to about ⅛" thick,
but it was still a little brittle. I used some hot water to soften up the wood and then
clamped it to the template I had cut earlier and let it dry, which helped it keep that
shape. After it dried, I glued it onto the side panels just like the rest of the edge
banding and it worked perfect.
With all of the edge banding applied, I could move on to the joinery for the credenza cabinet.
I used my Domino for this process, but you could definitely use dados, dowel joinery,
or pocket holes, there are tons of other options for cabinet construction out there.
I used the wing attachments on the Domino to get even spacing from the edges of the
cabinet, so I didn't need to mark out all of the Domino locations. This really sped
things up, and I was able to cut all of the joinery for the cabinet super quickly.
To cut the mortises for the center dividers, I clamped one of the dividers to the top or
bottom panels, made sure it was square, and used it as the reference surface for the Domino,
which worked great.
Once all of the mortises were cut for the credenza, I went ahead and glued it up, which
went pretty smoothly, although I used way too much glue and had a ton of squeeze out
to contend with.
While I'm working, let's talk about one of the sponsors of this week's project,
Purebond plywood. I really love using Purebond, it's a formaldehyde-free hardwood plywood
that's made in the USA, actually right down the road from me here in North Carolina, and
it's super high quality. Basically, any time I'm using plywood on a project, especially
for furniture, I'm using Purebond. Purebond is formaldehyde-free, uses soy based glues,
and is available exclusively at Home Depot, and I'll have a link in the video description
if you'd like to learn more.
With the credenza carcass drying, I moved on to the bookcase, which was basically the
same as the credenza. Once again, I used the Domino for the joinery and it went really
quickly.
Also, I am just loving the assembly table I built a few months ago. The t-track clamps
are super handy, and I've got plans available in case you're interested in building one
of these tables for yourself. I use it on every build and it's become one of the most
essential pieces in my shop.
Once all of the joinery was cut, I moved on to gluing up the bookcase, which was a real
challenge due to the sheer size of the piece. I didn't have any clamps long enough to
reach across the 64" wide bookcase, so I used some strap clamps, which worked really
well. This was definitely a stressful glue up, having an extra set of hands would have
been really helpful for sure.
Since the bookcase and credenza cabinets are two separate units, I had to think through
how the two would attach, and I decided to add a strip to the bottom back edge of the
bookcase to allow a mending plate to be attached and a screws to be added from behind later
on.
I attached this strip using pocket screws, since these screws will be covered up by the
back panel anyway.
Next, I needed to notch out the bottom dividers on the bookcase so they could be attached
around the strip, and I marked out the notch using the strip as reference and then cut
the notch using my bandsaw.
With the strip in place and the dividers notched, I could glue the dividers in place using the
Domino mortises I cut earlier. I used these Rockler corner clamps to make sure the dividers
were square to the shelves while the glue dried.
Once the glue dried, I came back and attached the strip to the dividers using a couple of
screws from the back side of the strip, just to give the dividers a little more stability.
With all of the pieces in place, I could attach the back panel to the bookcase and credenza.
I used ¼" Purebond Walnut veneered plywood for the back panel, to match the rest of the
cabinet, and I cut the sections to rough size at the table saw.
Before gluing on the back panel, I marked out the locations of the shelves and dividers
so I knew where I could add brad nails to hold the panel in place while the glue dried.
I also added a few spacers to the top shelf, to make sure it didn't sag at all during
the glue up.
Next, I added glue to the back edges of all of the pieces, dropped the back panel into
place, and added 1" brad nails every foot or so.
After the glue dried, I came back with a flush trim bit on my router and flushed the back
panel up with the sides of the bookcase and credenza.
With the back panel flushed up, I swapped to a chamfer bit and chamfered the edges of
the back panel so that the chamfered edge was flush with the sides of the cabinets.
This little trick really helps to hide the back panel and gives it a super clean look.
Now that the credenza carcass was finished, I could cut the doors and shelves to size
based on the actual final size of the credenza. This was more of the same process, cutting
the pieces to size from plywood and then adding hardwood edge banding.
I accidentally cut some of the shelves too narrow, so I made up for that extra length
by adding thicker edge banding, which worked out perfectly.
I didn't show most of the sanding on this build, just because it's boring, but there
was definitely plenty of it. I got through a lot of audiobooks on this project, hah.
While I'm sanding, let's talk about the sponsor of this week's video, Rocker Woodworking
and Hardware. I used a ton of Rockler products during this build, including their bandy clamps,
t-track clamps, crosscut sled, tapering jig, bench cookies, and lots more, and I'll have
links to all of the items I used in the video description below.
Rockler has got tons of great tools and accessories for your next build, and they're always
coming up with new and innovative ideas to help make your woodworking more efficient
and more enjoyable. Thanks again to the folks at Rockler for sponsoring this build.
Next, I could start getting the hardware added to the credenza. First, I drilled the shelf
pin holes using a homemade jig. I used ¼" brass shelf pins, which I think looked super
nice with the Walnut.
Next, I drilled the holes for the inset hinges I used on this project. I used this little
Kreg hinge jig which allowed me to drill perfectly square holes without using my drill press.
It also has guides for pilot holes for the screws that hold the hinge in place. It was
really useful, and I'll have a link to it in the video description below in case you're
interested.
For the door pull, I decided to keep it simple and just drill a hole through the door. I
used an 1 ½" Forstner bit for this and drilled the hole at the drill press.
After I drilled the hole in the door, I chamfered both sides to give it a clean look and a better
feel. I really like the way these pulls look on the final piece, they're super clean,
minimal, and obviously really easy.
Next, I hung the doors on the cabinet, first marking out the screw locations and pre-drilling
before adding the doors. These Blum soft-close hinges are nice and adjustable and it was
really easy to get an even reveal all the way around the door. Also, I just love how
smoothly they close, so satisfying.
The last part of this build was the base, which you might have seen in previous shots.
I actually built the base along the way, but figured I'd keep it all together to make
it easier to follow in the video.
I only had 5/4 Walnut on hand, so I first needed to mill the wood square and then glue
up some of the pieces to get the 8/4 thickness I was looking for on this base. The base will
be supporting a ton of weight between the bookcase, credenza, and all of the contents
of the two pieces once they're loaded up, so I wanted something really beefy.
After the glue up, I milled all of the parts square, cut them to length over at the miter
saw, and then cut a taper on the legs using the Rockler Tapering Jig. I ideally wanted
splayed legs on this piece, but I was worried that there would be too much weight on the
legs and the splay would cause the legs to fail.
For the joinery on the base, I used, you guessed it, Dominos, and the process went super quick.
I used two Dominos per corner and this made for a super strong base.
Once all of the mortises were cut, I glued the base together. Also, you can tell how
long I've been working on this piece, since I still had the pegboard up in the background
of this shot. This project has been lurking in the background for a few months and I'm
really happy to have it finished up finally.
To attach the base to the underside of the credenza, I used 1 ¼" pocket screws, so
I needed to drill some recessed holes for the screws. I used a Forstner bit to drill
the recess and then drilled the through hole using a twist bit.
Before attaching the base to the credenza, I gave it a good sanding, and then used the
aforementioned pocket screws to permanently attach the base to the underside of the credenza.
After sanding all of the parts up to 180 grit off camera, it was finally time to apply finish.
I went with General Finishes Enduro Var, which is a waterborne polyurethane, and sprayed
it with my Fuji Q3 HVLP system. You certainly could wipe or brush on the finish on a piece
like this, but it would have taken forever.
These huge pieces are really where spraying finish excels, and I was able to finish this
whole piece in an afternoon, spraying three coats and scuff sanding before the last coat.
The last step on this build was to attach the credenza to the bookcase. This is really
just a safety mechanism, it keeps the bookcase from sliding off the credenza when in use.
I needed to make sure the screws went into the dividers in the credenza, so I measured
and marked out where to add the plate. On the bookcase, it didn't really matter where
the screws landed since I added that strip during the build process.
With that, this massive build was finished. Man, that was a lot of work!
Alright, hopefully you guys enjoyed this one. This was a pretty massive undertaking for
me, definitely my biggest project to date, but I'm super happy with the way it came out.
There were a lot of time consuming steps, for example, putting on the hardwood edge
banding on all of these edges took a really long time, but I just love the way it came
together.
If you guys want more information on how to build this project, I will have plans available.
You can check out my website for that, I'll have a link in the video description below.
Also in the video description below, I'll have links to all of the tools and materials
I used on this build, which there were a lot of them.
And last, I want to say a big thanks to the sponsors of this week's video. Without my
sponsors, I could not do this for a living, so if you guys want to support me, support
my sponsors.
Alright, thanks again for watching everybody and, until next time, happy building.
*bird chirping obnoxiously*
God dangit bird, quiet!
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