I left this overnight and the glue has dried you don't really need to because
the screws really do hold it but I left mine and use a hand saw to cut this off
and I've got just a piece of cardboard to go in here so I can slide my saw
against it that should help to keep it parallel to the surface here.
it's going to leave the surface proud by 1/16 or so which I want because I don't want to cut
into the surface particularly
so just slide the arm, rest it on the calmly put on the cardboard here and just rub the teeth just to get them
into and recessed into the wood and then
this with a loose hand cut down There is that, this one is better if you complain
this way because it's going more with the grain although I'm going to rest a
plane on here and I'm taking off this heel here first
now this outside edge is going to split when I get to it, I've not reached it yet
but this is going to split so what I suggest you do is take the chisel right
on this corner and take off an area right there and then you can plane
without that breaking out and there is my surface plane so that works perfectly
so the same on this side get them the same size or similar so the heel is on
the surface of the bench tart so I'm counted upwards
there we flushed just a small areas on this corner will work that's that so
couple more this works just fine feels already very solid actually you could
use the sawhorse even at this stage once you cut the seat I mean the foot cut at
the bottom but of course the issue is always going to be long-term resilience
to stresses so the gussets make it certainly ultra strong there we are
beautiful look at the way those recesses are now they fit perfectly that's that
bit so the next bit is just to fit the gussets and do the seeker foot cuts but
we'll do the foot cuts after we fitted the gusset simply because adding the
gussets might just slightly alter the angles on the legs it probably will not
but just in case so now we're ready to attach the gussets I've got them glued
up I had them glued up so that they were good and dry
here they are I just used some scraps that i had some scraps of wood
like here this was an old shelf unit that I used these are nearly ready I
just have to unclog them surface plane them a little bit that will give me the
gusset wood...running out of space here
and I think I've got two different widths and anywhere between 9 inches and 11 inches will work perfectly well for
the gussets you can even go narrower if you feel like you need to have a
narrower piece but anywhere between nine and 11 inches is fine I've got 10 and a
quarter here and I've got 11 here so I'm going to cut this one down to 11 Oh what
was it 10 and a quarter so I'm going to cut this one down here and then surface
plane this is feeling great I think you're going to really enjoy making this
sawhorse
It's definitely going to enhance your hand skills for sure and every time you do that it enhances your confidence this is
I love the way this wood works ignore these grooves they're from another
project when I was teaching so I'm just using up my offcut so I just used a
scrub plane then this is a good combination I was using a scrub plane
and there's my smoother and that just the scrub plane takes off the heavy
stock as you know so let's get rid of this one and we can now offer this to
this so we can do this this is going to go directly under here like this so
we're going to cut the angles and it doesn't really make too much difference
let's do it this way this goes here this is going to go here so I have two angles
that I have to cut it could be anywhere on here so there's one there's the other
and I can do this temporarily I can cut this oversize slightly on one side now
if I simply saw through here this wood is going to fracture on this side it's
not very stable so I have to think this through a little bit I'm going to go
with a straight edge here with a knife wall right on the line here
now you could just simply attach these to the sawhorse and saw it on the
sawhorse but if you do go off course a little bit then you might be damaging
the legs on the sawhorse so this one seems to fit my mind the best so this
gives me the exact line that I want to get to on the other side of the piece
of wood flip over right on that knife neck and the same here these are just to
give us the exact cut lines that we need so go here and here that perfects it
this is the outside face here now so I'm going to cut from the outside face to
the inside face then if there is any fraying on the inside it will help but
I'm going to put this and this in the vise here just like this and this extra
bar here will give me something to push against I'm going to sort away from my
line if you saw exactly on the line or if you come slightly out where your
length is slightly shorter than the displayed legs shape you can always play
in a shaving off the top when you move that up it'll make the endgrain stick
pass the leg a little bit
I'm finding this is some binding on the sole little bit and it's pushing me off line as you can see there I think on your side I'm going
to take this off so I can come back out to my line these things happen even with
a good saw i wanna fight back to get it back on line this happens even to
the best of us so I'm going to squeeze this here this is closing up on the saw
because the wood is kiln dried probably
just take it out of the way that was really closing up on me this is quite
unusual
let's trim here and then I want to check my angle because i want this really to
stick past the surface just a little bit
Trouble is I can't remember which side I did to take that quick look no pencil
marks or anything to guide me that's definitely not the one
I believe that is the one
I'm going to use the pencil as well just to guide me
so I'm a little bit , I'm just off the line because I took more off the
other side so I'm going to cook well away from my line this time just to
guarantee that this was still big enough
I'm a little bit too far this time so I can close in on that So I'm going to come with my screw
holes next so there I've got one 3/4 so I'm going to come 7/8 in from this edge
7/8 from this edge it took to you how many screws you put in I would probably
suggest just using three but I don't want to put one across my joint line I'm
going to go an inch and a half down from the top here
inch-and-a-half up from the bottom and
then I just want to see this may be uneven so four inches would bring me just
above that joint line there so I'm going to go here think if I was right on the
joint line I would have gone with four holes that's just up to you really
and if you're uncertain about getting these even on equal sides just go ahead
and use a rule to get them exactly where you want. Lets see how well I did, 35 34 35 35
can't beat that really countersink I
want the screw heads just to sit in here which is why we use a countersink
otherwise the screw itself acts like a splitter if you didn't countersink it
even though it's soft wood these tend to split the wood which we do not want so
we're ready to screw this in place
go ahead and take those off see how this fits you can do this so you can see it
put this in the vise here this is going to go here so I'm going to leave it pass
slightly past on this side can you see the difference there between so I do
have the wrong one and they will vary a little bit but they won't affect the
sawhorse itself so I wouldn't sweat it unless you want to
that's good we're going to put a line on the bottom here
was directly underneath the top and then a wiggle of glue
now you probably will notice I'm not sure if you will but these are not truly
flat from one side to the other can you see right in here we've got a gap here
and a gap here but it's still worth putting the glue there because it will
the screws will sinch wood will compress and it will generally get this way you
want it to be I want to make sure I have enough here to plane off flush on both
sides and also you may want to I don't know if you will check for moisture but you do
want this wood to be dry because it will shrink if it's not dry and that can
crack it across here and that's usually why we might use plywood instead of
solid wood but I wouldn't hesitate to use solid wood because even if it does
crack it's not going to affect the stability of the sawhorse at all nor
will it affect the strength
so I can see the glue squeezed out a little bit there so we did that now I
just have to plane these flush and this can get more and more awkward
because now maybe you can get it in the vise like in this case I can put it this
way but then this gets in the way so you have to extend it over like this and it
does get more awkward in my day-to-day I would just sit it on the floor sit on
the sawhorse and do it from above this works fine so I'm working making sure I
don't go all the way through because this will split once I get close to
flush here I can start pulling but if I wasn't doing this to camera i would just
stand on the other side
I just like to make challenges for myself a little bit of flex in there
because it's in the vise then I off here and we do the same
on the other side but now I think you'll see how this is coming together so
you've got the cross bracing in the gusset underneath this top that works
perfectly and you've got the bracing on the legs which also works well you've
got the joint here that stops it from splaying this way and the undergirding
of the gusset so you're well on your way to earning a decent sawhorse
don't do what I just did that actually didn't split it out there but you do
want to come this way just to get that end bit and then work down this way so
lift the heel of the plane to get that last bit and that's it that's that bit
so I'll attach the other one and then we'll scribe the feet
just to get you just to show you exactly what happened here we've got this joint
here stops the legs from spreading out this way
these stop the legs spreading this way so when you put weight on you can always
beef these up if you wanted to put a cross rail underneath this top you
probably wouldn't need it I'm sure it would take a close to - by the time
you finish this the screws there's nothing wrong with using screws the only
thing you might consider is that the screws are metal and if you were sawing
you could saw through but if you've already sawn into your sawhorse you've
already failed an accident so just a joke
but you do want to consider that the screws not only have a pulling effect
they have the clamping effect that and for what would be difficult to clamp but
also they're permanent and then with combined with the gluing is of super
strong union on that top corner and that's what I want these screws in here
work perfectly these I have never had one of these split through shrinkage but
I mentioned it earlier just to make sure you were aware that if your wood isn't
dry than it does want to pull and it will give but if your wood is dry it
wants to expand and that's never a problem if you've screwed it expansion
isn't a problem so let's take a look at one more element now and that is what I
did I measured up just to see how accurate I was and I went from the internal corner
to the extreme here I've got 290 1.5 mil and this one is 291 mil so you can see
we were fairly accurate this one is 290 mil and this one is 290 1.5 so we've got
two that are the same and then two others that are one mil which is only
1/30 of an inch which is almost negligible but that's not the issue the
length of the legs won't be the issue the issue will be whether the splays are
perfect things like that so I'm going to put my winding stick on here
if it will balance just long enough to get this and I can see about 1/8 of
twist in this so in other words there is a point on here this point in this point
are higher than this point and this point would I bother about that
generally I certainly would not but my bench top is also dead flat because I
planed it through two years after I made it and you can see that difference here
can you see in there so these two points are higher than this point and this is
what we do if we do have that I just got two little blocks of wood they don't
have to be shaped then I slide one and I equi distance the gap on that side press
it down and take this block and slide this one under this here and that stops
it from rocking and then I can use the bench top as my reference surface and I
take my pencil here and see what happens here there's I've got a one-inch rule
and let me show you how I arrived at that you can see under here here's my
one inch and it's just past this corner now if you want it to a specific height
just measure down from this point down to this point twenty six and a half
whatever height you want and then make a scribing piece that's the width you want
I'm going with this so this will show you here we place it on the bench top
and pull that cut line we go on this one and pull the cut line on the inside face
and on the inside face so this is super quick it means that we have a perfect
alignment to the bottom of each foot cut
so that the whole of the foot is sitting on the floor that here's the anomaly
here there is no such thing as a perfectly flat for flat floor it doesn't
exist in concrete I'll almost anything really probably the
closest you might get might be a I don't know a gym floor there we have it so now
we have these foot cuts to do which isn't easy but we're going to make
it look easy I want this to be exact am I going to do knife Walls I'm probably
not going to do knife walls I'm going to use a tenon saw across here right on the
cut on the knot on the line here and I go so carefully now to follow this line
like this then I'm going to come from this side which isn't going to be easy
because I want this to follow the outside line as well so I'm right on I'm
dead on my line both sides I'm going to come from this side because now it's not
going to go off line will my saw make it I don't know
I think it will. The issue here is whether I should reach for a Japanese saw or
not the answer is no all right this one's so far out I'm not sure if I'll
I'll get vibration from this one so we'll try it. There you can feel the
difference but it's cutting nicely how am i doing that side good so your saw
horse will take a lot of stress and this is this is a lot of stress on here there
is no doubt what we do next is we take the heiress's off quite heavy and you
could use a chisel for this because these will definitely break off because
sawhorses often get dragged across the floor so you may as well take
it off because it'll only split off
that's how we get the seat cut I do want to finish this one I'm going to cut the
others I'm going to cut the others so you can see just in case something goes
wrong I have to correct it I like to be able to show you what I did to correct
it if I can come close to the vise just to reduce the vibration so those first
opening strokes those first five are to align it with this but they also are
guiding the saw for subsequent cut so you do have to get it close to the angle
you could work from the outside like I did before because the outside edge is
the one that's going to be seen bit more awkward for me here but as long as you
can see that's all that matters one more
on this one I ended up splitting the line so I am slightly off that last
bit it's always awkward that's it so I have two I've got another one to make yet to
finish but that gives me a perfect workstation to work through our
sawhorses always have four legs there it is there's no rock
so it's scribed perfectly exactly as I wanted it two of those and you have
sawhorses for life I don't think I would go with a hardwood there are a dense
grain heavy hardwood like oak because they're too heavy this is perfect a
combination of the joinery with either pine spruce fir will give you a nice
lightweight sawhorse and that will keep you for the rest of your life in
woodworking look how clean and neat everything is joiner is right on perfect
just as an addendum if you want to apply some Finish I think it's a good idea
you could use a water-based finish boiled linseed oil danish oil shellac
whatever you want don't make it too shiny
just enough to seal the surfaces it does keep them cleaner I've kept this one
I've got the outdoor fence finish on my older ones and that worked just fine it
was great a one additional thing - you may want to consider what we often did
on the jobsite when we went out to work rather than cutting into the joinery
area we took a piece of one by material just like this across the top so that
when we were cutting we had a slightly wider surface but also any saw cut could
go into that without damaging the main body of the sawhorse and it kept you
away from the screws and so on so that was a good idea we did that mostly not
occasionally
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