so now I'm ready to sand this and this is really all my sanding this is the neat
thing on all my project that is just about all the sanding I ever have to
do on my project I never have to do any more than that I'm not using abrasion to
create a flat surface
now the crisp lines almost disappear when I use the sand paper because it is
abrasive I'm doing this now so I don't have all the sanding to do it once now
I've got the rim of the box to do these pieces wood swells at a different rate
even this piece may have swell differently than this week this piece
after it was machined or after it was planed so I'm going to plane in any
uneven surfaces this surface is slightly higher than this one here so when my
knife hits there you can see it hits there and it hits there just slightly
hits there and there it's going clear so I have to plane this rim flush and this
is really fun make sure as you saw before that the plane is set perfectly
you want to have a very small amount to take off not a lot I'm clamping this low
in the vise not high in the vise see I'm about half an inch off or not quite level it
doesn't have to be level but now I'm ready to take off the high spots there
we start on these high pieces here so this was high this was flush so we start
here keep your plane on registered on the
surface of the rim and push this into that corner and keep going until
you're flush now I'm flush so that didn't take more than three or four
shavings I go to this one now I'm keeping my plane registered on this side
of the box here so that that helps me to keep the planes square if I go this way
I could be rocking over this way and that would cause me a problem when I
come to put the bottom on the box if this was the bottom so I'm going through
here this shaving is actually I'll try and show you this shaving is only half
the width here and so I'm gonna keep going on this one until I get a full
width shaving in there and I may need to go from this long reach here like this
again relying on the rim of the box to keep me square now the shaving has gone
- all of a sudden it's gone - about three quarters now here my plane is
sharp but you can see I think you can see I can see ripples in the surface of
this shaving here that tell me that I'm going against the grain a little bit but
because my plane is sharp the surface is still quite smooth so I'll show you what
I'm gonna do I can feel that I can see it this is one of the neat things about
hand planes it really brings you into a relationship with the wood so I'm going
from here I'm switching hands because I can use both hands because of the
practice I've had not quite so easy if you're not used to using a plane around
the corner just go gently I'm still going against the grain here but the
surface actually is quite smooth so see where my plane is registered now that's
guaranteeing that this is square so I can come back along here now if I want
to so we're nice and flush around here now
now I'm going definitely against the grain there and I don't think that's
acceptable so I'm going to go back around this way
because it was so smooth the other way so this is just an exercise in reading
the grain working with the grain then what's better shaving even though it
seemed to be jagged it really wasn't here that's going along right against
the grain see when I go this way now I'll come along here go along here I'm
going to go to there and that's my Rim done on this side I'm just going to I'm
not gonna slow down I'm just going to work as I would normally work this time
so you can see what it takes a little higher I can plane in this way I can turn
my plane around on the rim to go with the grain
I'm happy with that if this is my top edge i'm gonna break the corners
here like this: one, two -one, two more comfortable and I can go inside this corner to there and
then I come back this way so I'm within a about quarter of an inch half an inch
from the corners here a little bit more difficult that made that corner much
less sharp very nice really to touch
but these are techniques for the number four plane so now I'm going to put the
bottom on and to do that I've got another piece of wood here I don't know
if you can see in the surface of this this is a pencil line here from a
previous mark but I need to plane these undulations from the planar mark
out so place this on the underside of my box and I want an equi distance all the
way around I've allowed quarter of an inch on each on each edge I have not cut
it to length because I wanted to show you a couple of things about cutting it
it to length I've got a little saw mark in here from some previous cut so that has
to come out so first of all I'm going to this is only about an eighth from the
end so I'm going to take my knife create a knife wall and crosscut this grain all
the way around registering the stock of my knife against this edge for this
operation like this that guarantees that the wall on both sides is exactly the
same
like that going to use a bench hook for this only just chisel into this corner
here just to give me a little start for my saw and this is a tenon saw that I'm
using so I'm going to slide my saw right up against that knife wall that I
created no margin away from I go right up to it start on the back edge and then
lower the saw into the cut along the knife wall let me show you what I've got
here I'm I'm tight up against this knife wall there's no gap along there at all
and then I plane this one dead square what I'm gonna check here this is this
is sawn square so I don't have any gaps in there so I just have to clean up that
corner I don't actually have to do it but I want you to see how it's done so
here I probably could show you what I'm looking at here to how close we can get
but right on this front edge here there's a very different line that I can
see right along this edge and my rep my knife is the point of my knife is
resting on that RIM one is the sore-cut and the other is the knife wall and this
the fibers left from the saw are slightly above the knife wall so I'm
using the knife wall rim to guide my plane so I work down to the knife wall
I'll show you now so I'm not going all the way through because this will
definitely break now you can see how crisp and square my edge is here so I'm
dead true across dead square in both directions and when I put the square on
it's absolutely spot-on so it just took a few seconds really maybe no more than a
minute in reality so we placed the box on here and we equidistance this left
hand side so we have quarter of an inch here quarter an inch here and quarter
inch here I usually will just mark I already marked it with a pencil
previously but I usually take a knife make a mark and then check myself with
my rule and that's right on exactly on that quarter inch mark I'm going to
square the line across this face and do exactly as this the same as I did for the
other end this way end is way out of square
so I'm getting rid of that little knot on the end as well I'll be conscious of
that when I come to planing the end
little nick on this corner here just to start me off I don't need to go all the
way across with this hear that noise let me see if I can create it again listen
so I've got this wonderful smell coming from here this is a pocket of resin in
here and that is just so intense that I'm just filling my nostrils with it it's
a wonderful smell I've got to plane the surface just to take out any marks
and all my plane is set fairly shallow you just take it so I just worked across
the width like this I see the Rays and the flex in this just
glistening after I planed it so if you can see here just this pristine
beautiful surface now we rounding these ends I'm gonna round the ends because
several reasons really but when you put the the lip around the box sometimes you
catch it and if it's square the edge it'll it'll break or ding here I'm going
to put a 45 degree on here all the way across if you see yourself going wrong
and it's to get taking more off at this end of this and just take a couple of
extra strokes and correct it so I'm lowering the plane to 22 23 whatever
that angle is be splitting the difference then I go all the way down
and I start working up with the plane changing the angle every time I do the
same from this side i'm going to take this out and just show you I'm planning at a 45
degree so my plane is actually 45 degrees in the vise and after I've done
that when it's about an eighth of an inch wide I drop my hand this way to a
lower angle and then I go all the way down here and then with each pass I keep
lifting lifting lifting lifting all the way onto the top so that's what's
happening so I'll do this corner on your side so you can see so I'm working up
to the top then I take off the extra depth and I go with a much shallower
pass more frequent passes taking off literally a thousandth of an inch with
each pass this smoothes up the corner so where I have such minimal sanding that
all I have to do to get a perfect round is that I've got a lovely lovely
pristine round on this edge here so when my box is on like this it just comes
right to the edge now then here's a good point I want to make sure I don't plane under
this rim of the box so what I might suggest you do I've been gauging this by
eye is put your box onto your piece of wood like this equidistance everything
all the way around and then take a sharp pencil but don't press heavily and just
follow this line just to make sure you don't plain under the rim of your box on
that bottom piece that will just guide you you can do the same on the other
side here's another trick take your finger offer it to this line here like
this and you can just flip over and you can run a parallel line just like that
the same on this one it should be the same it is so you can run this line on
the underside like this and the same on this side too so you've got guide lines
all the way around on both sides now you do the ends first the reason you do the
ends first and not the long stretches is because if you go all the way through
and this does break you can always repair it on this long edge A little more
setting if your wood is bold a little the vise usually takes care of it if it
doesn't clump a piece of wood somewhere lower down to little clumps spring
clamps will probably do it on both sides so this would be the belly side here if
you clump it on either side that'll take the belly out and it'll keep that edge
crisper and straight 45 1/8 wide then drop your hand
drop your hand again and start working up changing the pitch of your plane so
you can see I'm 45 degrees or there abouts this way and I'm 45 degrees this
way so reset your plane I use a oil shock dragging a can just to grease the
bottom here
my body my fingers absorbed that vibration then so you can use your
fingers too you can see I'm here I've left my line here you can see that
pencil line there originally left so I've still got that I've still got it here so
I'm working just nicely now this long reach the long edges get rid of this dog
here
so here along this long gaze this is a very fine cut so I'm resetting my plane
so I turn this clockwise and then an extra quarter turn I've got a better
shaving and a good shaving now so one shaving all the way through to
make it dead straight then 45 degrees again now this time I don't have to
angle my plane this way I'm relying on the length of the sole of the plane for
this long edge and because I'm running along the main axis of the wood and
these cells are long cells going in this direction I can take a shaving all the
way through and I have no end grain on this end to contend with don't press too
hard because you can break this panel so my main weight and pressure is in the
forward thrust not down onto the wood so I'm taking off some weight from the
shaving
I try it and get this is as round as i can off the plane just to minimize the amount of
sanding I have to do sand right up and off the corner like that sand
right up like this and then go off the corner and it'll give you a lovely clean
mitered corner on this edge either one of these will work you can see here this
is very sharp there's no break out here it's all same on this edge here it's
exactly the same nice clean edge so one more rim and I'm ready to put this on
the box
so much nicer than a router this is very small to put a little bead on there with
a router this makes it so safe it's so enjoyable really that's the benefit of
hand tools how it can complement your woodworking so now when I place my box
on here all I have to do is really glue this on now and you can see the lovely
corner here how the two parts complement one another now the joinery is
harmonious and the composition of this corner is very beautiful the next stage
is to glue the bottom onto the mainframe the box sides and then one of the things
that I want to check for I've got my round overs done I've got my surface
planed and sanded I look for gaps right in this inside corner when I
squeeze this remember this is super thin stock so you can clamp anything out if
there are gaps but sometimes there's a gap on this outside edge because
something might not be planed square so we'd have to correct that but if this
was just this flexing if this was bent here down or up then I would just clamp
that out here here this is curved it a little bit with them with the dampness
or the exchange of moisture in the wood but you can see here I have a slight gap
but when I press here it just closes up right away so there's no issue there so
I'm going to place this on the Box even out the the distance there's equi
distance all the way around and when I've done that I make a small X I mean a
small L right in the corners like here on each of those internal corners and
that shows me exactly where i want to place my box when I drop it on
with the the glue on the underside rim so you can see I make these little
corner pieces here so when I flip over this was this way so I flip over this
way so I've got an exact match to those lines then I run a small bead of glue
along here like this all the way through you keep it continuous if you can and
that large glob at the beginning I just take this and get rid of it straight
away and then I use my finger all the way through underneath the bench there
you don't want too much glue you don't want it globbing up on the outside and then move
fairly quickly just to seek the box make sure you've got no glue this PVA just
peels off your fingertips and flip your box over and place it on the L at one
end and then lower the other end and line it up with the other two holes in
the inside corners and then I just press here taking care that it doesn't slip
and slide because it's floating on that RIM of glue just hold it there for a few
seconds and then slide it into position if it's if it slipped at all and I've
got my clamps ready I've also got some pieces of wood just to pack I've got
pads on the clamps so I don't have to worry too much I'm going to use this on
here keep the eye on that outside edge now when you apply clamp sometimes they
will cause slippage so keep your eye on the corner as you as you apply pressure
just apply one clump make sure nothing slides if it slides you have to take
this off and reposition that's got it fairly tight really right now
same with this one so it's moving gracefully and anticipating slippage
that will save any problems I'm gonna try and get away with just the four
clumps but if I can't I'll add some in the middle or wherever there is a gap
I'll check the ends if you remember we had a small gap here that gaps gone and
that gap has gone and I have a slight gap here and a slight gap here that's
because if I try and explain it to you these fibers are being compressed by the
clump and wood compresses remember it's like straws in long rows so it's
clamping there so it's causing this to belly on this end so I will need to put
because of the length I will need to put some extra clumps in the middle ply was
really good for this you can see I've used plywood I don't have much use of
plywood this is great so let's close that gap up and you may need two clamps
along that edge just it will vary depending on the thickness of this
bottom so I'm using a pad here because there's no pad on the clamp itself so
squeeze those up and then go back around and check the clamps now you've applied
this pressure just give an even pressure all the way around set this aside now
leave it overnight or whatever I easily just put it somewhere leave it till
tomorrow morning take it off and then I can put my finish off
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