Youtube daily motor Oct 31 2018

♥ Thanks so much for watching!

For more infomation >> LARVA - Motor Oil - Funny Cartoon - Duration: 1:35.

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WOW! 4 LIFE HACKS WITH ICE CREAM AND MOTOR - Duration: 29:29.

WOW! 4 LIFE HACKS WITH ICE CREAM AND MOTOR

For more infomation >> WOW! 4 LIFE HACKS WITH ICE CREAM AND MOTOR - Duration: 29:29.

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SUD MOTOR EXPO 2K18 VLOG #2 - Duration: 6:05.

hello guys good morning, today is Saturday, September 29 2k18

and today we go to the south motor expo. this is the program of the day, let's see what is there

accident at 35km/h on the scooter

freestyle motocross! full video in description ;)

guys, I'm about to leave, I'm lost a show, I hope you enjoyed the video.

in the description I leave you the link of this event

comment, subscribe and likeeeeeee...!

For more infomation >> SUD MOTOR EXPO 2K18 VLOG #2 - Duration: 6:05.

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The second life of outboard motor YAMAHA 9A - Duration: 30:40.

Hi everyone!

We are going to start a new project about overhaul restoration of the outboard engine Yamaha 9A.

The exact release date is unknown

the hood is repainted and the stickers are handmade

For the time being, we don't know that we will do with this motor.

The thing is that the compression is 11 kg on the upper cylinder and 7.5 kg on the lower cylinder.

It's too bad

The wires have already rotted and we had to make twists just to check the spark.

It is on both cylinders, that's good =)

Somebody put the Chinese safety switch with broken cap.

But the most interesting thing is

that the previous owner made this pulley for pull starter.

The pulley was made to order at the factory.

Here as you can see the pull starter isn't on the top

and it's an old variant and it works like this.

This was is still using on the Chinese outboard motor Zongshen

which was copied from the Italian motor Selva,

the owner put here the aluminum pulley instead of plastic one which was deteriorated.

It works but we have to take the pull starter apart because the starter spring has jump and to check the compression and to make sure that the spark is.

The swivel mechanism rotates very tight.

So, we will take it apart, look what's inside;

then we will think is it possible to restore the compression.

And if all is in vain then maybe we will

set another engine on this casing as we have already done in one of our videos "New life with another engine".

We don't know is it possible to do anything,

maybe we will restore this engine or maybe set a new one.

The review on this engine you can watch on our channel "Old outboard motors, part 1".

In our playlist you can find all videos about old motors.

Well, let's look a bit closer.

These spark plugs were installed

one is BR6 (this very spark plug that have to be installed on this engine on models 7A, 9A, so on the motor with contact ignition).

The second spark plug was A11

There are rusty bolts in some places,

the paint is not original and here is a nail.

There is a water in the gear,

thick yellow oil,

gear's condition is still unknown.

This it that very aluminum pulley,

works good, here is the old one.

In fact, everything rotates,

the engine doesn't make noise,

bearing's condition we will see then we take it apart,

probably we will change them.

Stern bracket are rusty,

they are handmade and welded by electric welding.

This one is good but that doesn't move at all.

Here the gear is unscrewed (we don't know why)

2 bolts are unscrewed and 2 aren't, it's too strange.

The friction handle is absent here to adjust the swivel mechanism tighter or weaker.

First of all we are going to remove the engine,

take it apart and look what's inside.

The flywheel has rusted to the crankshaft,

probably the motor was drowned.

The upper crankshaft's oil seal is dead.

We've just removed the engine,

the lower crankshaft's oil seal is dead too and sticks out.

A lot of bolts were broken during the disassembly

but that's all right, we will restore everything.

Unfortunately, block's shape doesn't allow to cut it in half that's why we have to remove upper cap;

anyway, the gasket is torn, we will change it.

There are a lot of burrs

one ring is absent because we've removed it and try to find some modern analogues.

Where is my second ring?

Here it is

Everything is good but there are burns,

I think they are because of the overheat.

So, we decided to restore this engine,

to bored out it for repair size,

change all oil seals, bearings,

clean out an old paint and repaint to the original color.

Well, we've removed the gearbox, the pump is old-styled,

we will put a new one

Somebody has screwed in a bolt with a big shim for unknown purpose.

As it turned out, it was made to fix the crack in water pump.

Of course, we will change the pump to a new plastic one.

We've already made video how to make a new pump for YAMAHA 7A and YAMAHA 9A using the old one.

An often problem of aluminum pumps is insert cartridge squeeze like this.

It is squeezed inside because of corrosion and as a result it become cambered.

The pump starts working worse and then stops working at all.

The main advantage of the pump with a plastic case is that it stays in a good working shape.

The gearbox is alive, there is no corrosion;

nobody knows how many years the details were in emulsion.

We will put the same original bearings, and change only oil seals.

We continue disassembly;

as usually, the seal on the cooling tube has broken (it's an often thing on these motors);

one should change it,

otherwise there will be problems with cooling.

The swivel mechanism rotates tight because of the corrosion;

we will clean, peal and grease all bushings.

Thank Neptune, everything is good inside.

The motor is completely disassembled, just all broken bolts are unscrewed,

some pieces are left including grease.

We've restore threads.

We will order repair pistons, gaskets and bore cylinders 0.25 mm.

We aren't going to invent anything,

just use spare parts we've already had.

Before painting, we have to restore some broken details

these for example

clean the surfaces from the old paint.

We hope, we will succeed to save this motor for descendants.

We've cleaned off all details and then we are going to bore cylinders.

After the cleaning we've seen some hidden defects.

For example, this piece has totally rotten, we will eliminate it by spraying,

otherwise there will be someу water in bottom cowling.

Here you can see ready-made version,

we just need to process the surface and the side will be thick like in the original, and water won't have any place to run out.

The diameter of the piston in this motor is 50 mm.

It is same like TOHATSU 6, 8, and 9.8

But TOHATSU's piston won't suit.

The motor won't work because the inlet intake port won't close.

According to the catalog YAMAHA 6B and 8B pistons can be used there,

so both these motors have identical pistons

After boring we're going to work up the intake parts and then start assembling.

To remake aluminum pump to plastic one,

we have to bore shaft sleeve to less diameter because diameters of new and old details are different – these insert cartridge and pump's plate.

We've welded the collar from 2 sides so that it doesn't turn when it will be worked up on the lathe.

Then on the milling-machine we are made a new provided with a keyslot by cutter.

More detailed video you can watch on our channel, the link in the description.

Now we will assemble the gearbox;

it's body has already cleaned and it will be painted after assemble.

We bought the repair kit of the pump YAMAHA 8 Enduro.

There is pump casing, insert cartridge, gasket, bolts, impeller, plate and key.

Here are catalogue numbers of these details.

We've already remade the shaft for the new impeller,

primed pump base plate (to save from corrosion).

We've assembled pump and gearbox

but after compression 1 kg we saw that boot shift rod.

On a new model there isn't a sleeve and boot shift rod is put on this very plate.

Now the gearbox can stand 1 kg pressure and it doesn't fall.

Also, 1 feature of this old model is absence of hole for water intake in this place.

So on new models there's water intake with canal and during the driving water go to the pump, so the cooling system is more upgraded.

We've restored all necessary parts of the lifting mechanism,

the handle of shallow water is welded.

Now let's try it on to avoid the roughness and then we'll weld it.

The next stage is assembly, including the cleaning of all details from the dirt and corrosion,

searching new bolts instead of broken ones,

cleaning of threaded connections from the oxidation before screwing,

carburetor's cleaning.

First of all, we'll assemble the swivel mechanism (cleaning and greasing sleeves).

Now it's done, the lifting mechanism is installed.

As it turned out, the handle was stuck into the case by its fixation during the first gear up because middle section was put down a bit.

We began to see into this problem and had to bore a shim to lift middle section up.

So, now there is quite big gap to avoid sticking.

Also, we've made the handle for fixing the rotation tighter or weaker and on that tip made a stopper to get away this handle wringing and losing.

We'll put a stub on the port for access to traction from Chinese outboard motor Hangkai 6 because they are the same, but the original one is torn.

Gradually, the motor acquires a recognizable appearance.

There was no cold start handle that's why we made it.

It was the first launch of the motor,

it worked half an hour on rolling in gasoline.

In general, everything is fine, the motor hasn't tuned yet but it works good and doesn't overheat.

As you can see, the starter pulley is another, plastic, this is the original one.

It was here because this is a completely different manual starter,

which had to be installed here thanks to our subscriber,

as that starter was broken during the starting the engine.

The mechanism inside just fell apart.

But the plastic pulley is also almost worn out because the owner used the manual starter unskillfully;

incorrect and abrupt start of the engine leads to this.

We'll replace the gear to the aluminum one, because it's very inconvenient to use it when teeth slip even when you try to combine the flywheel and the mechanism carefully.

Now the compression is 12 kg on both cylinders.

Thanks for your attantion!

It's our next project

For more infomation >> The second life of outboard motor YAMAHA 9A - Duration: 30:40.

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Land Rover Freelander 2.5 V6 GS Wagon Automaat !!MOTOR DEFECT!! - Duration: 1:10.

For more infomation >> Land Rover Freelander 2.5 V6 GS Wagon Automaat !!MOTOR DEFECT!! - Duration: 1:10.

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Potenciar Deslimitar Motor eléctrico de Bicicleta - Duration: 9:40.

In today's video we will see how to enhance a bicycle electric motor, change

the battery and switch to a controller more powerful to get more power in the

slopes

The engine that I will use as an example is an engine of 250 w of the i mortor brand that is of the

less powerful that exist in the market but helps a lot on the slopes that is for

what I buy it.

the problem is that the original battery that is 3 amps can not stand the effort

on the slopes and after enough cycles charge the battery loses capacity, then

although it's just loaded if you accelerate like You see the little green light goes out and that means

that is not able to deliver the amps required

so I bought an 8 amp battery and there I leave the specifications that is not

bad for what it costs, it puts 15 amps of rated power

for the imortor motor model you will need an xt 30 connector that is the small one that

You see, I made a cable with the first I caught him at home, the cable is too much

thick for the connector and in that case we should reduce the section to be able to weld it

to the connector, the good thing about using thick cables is that you will not have tension drop and that is

important, otherwise, when you are going to accelerate the engine does not receive all the tension it needs,

If you do not know how to weld, you can buy the connector with the cable already soldered and it would simply be

to connect it to the thickest cable with a connector of pressure like the one you see

the battery goes out as the compartment where was the old one is very small and

does not fit

the good thing is that the battery is no longer coming down when accelerating and autonomy goes from 10

km that I had with the original battery when It was new at about 30 kms on flat without pedaling

that's not bad at all with this battery of 8 amps

change to a battery of more amps you do not will provide more power on slopes

Here we see that this hill climbs to 11 km more or less hour if we want something more power

without spending a lot of money you can change the controller and for a 350 w motor costs

about 11 or 15 euros

the controller came in a huge box but without assembly instructions, that if some

connectors came with stickers in Chinese how good already with that I had a settled life

Here we see that according to the seller supports a maximum 17 amps

well let's start with the thicker wires, Most bicycle engines are three-phase

and these three cables that you see are thicker that the rest are usually loose so in connectors

individual are the power cables of the motor, then we have other thick cables

what is the driver's feed, is say what you have to connect to the battery

They are usually black and red, negative and positive, the fine you see in the same connector is a

ignition cable of the connecting equipment to the thick positive

we can connect it to a key switch as if it were the ignition starter key

of a motorcycle and so nobody can activate the motor without the key

well we already have the thick cables identified, this controller works with or without sensors

hall that is the connector of 5 cables that you see here, the power to do without the sensors

hall makes the connection so much easier that if you are going to buy a driver choose

one that works without the hall sensors that They are on the wheel because as I say it's more

easy to connect

then finally we must look for the cables to operate the wheel either by accelerator

on the handlebar or by pedaling sensor, the connector in both cases is 3 cables so

I have them here with their stickers in Chinese I do not know anything, so I'll use the

google translator and good tells you the function of the cables but it does not tell you if it is the sensor

of pedaling or the accelerator good then I will show a little trick to get identified

the connector that we want to use

well then I got down to work looking of the controller that has the wheel so

Start by removing one of the covers but it turns out that by removing the lid what

inside was not the controller but a huge bearing that looks like a truck,

well to separate the motor from the wheel there several ways what I did is in wild mode

although I recommend at least put a wood so as not to deform the tip of the shaft of all

forms are 3 4 hammer blows because it is about remove the bearing shaft, then we have

the magnets that prevents us from taking out the engine, and there what I did was put on top of the

wheel and so the axle against the ground separated The magnets.

the truth is that the difference in size between the controllers makes me think that if the

big I cost 11 euros the small how much it must cost that it only supports 10 amps,

we connect the motor to the new cables that I have prepared and we can use a connector

pressure, these connectors have a tool special to place them but squeezing with

a pliers with care not to cut them too can be placed and they look good and we put tape

insulation or heat-insulating insulation, it is important that these cables do not short circuit

if it cuts us short the wheel and being the front wheel we have secured the fall

so be careful

when you go to assemble the wheel the magnets once they approach they have enough strength

so you also have to be careful with the fingers

well as I said before identifying the cables I doubted between two connectors the one of the assistant

to the pedaling and the accelerator both one another one works with a very small tension

from 4 to 5 volts so we can bypass two cables and if it works then

that's the handlebar throttle connector

if the wheel turns in the opposite direction it is very easy to change the turn simply change a

motor power cable by another and ready

this accelerator shows us the battery level through a red wire that goes to the positive

of the battery

even if you see the connections so bad connected is because I was trying to work

first everything is correct then it connects all good and finally we connect the fifth

and last throttle cable to fine red and so we can turn off or on from the

switch

This controller has a cable for control of cruise, that if we join it to the signal

of the accelerator stays at the speed that I had at that time.

we can even connect it to the switch but we would lose the indicator lights of

Battery

And finally I used a magnet switch like those that are usually put on doors and windows

to signal opening or closing so that stop in the case of if you leave the bicycle

in the street anyone can accelerate and burn the engine accelerating in stopped

driving the engine by accelerator is illegal at least in Spain, the engine can not

must start from stopped accelerating and according to the regulation must be triggered by the sensor

of pedals and not by an accelerator on the handlebar, So I've recorded the video in areas without

transit of cars

surely you will wonder how many watios of power manages to develop the motor,

Well, I really do not know, I have not measured it, but comparing acceleration and power

on slopes that he has now I calculate that round about 350 watts approximately

it would be 40% more but they really are numbers approximate

as for the maximum speed an engine like this of 250 w that is of the small ones

there are up to 1500 w that reach 60 km per hour and in these 250 the maximum speed

It's not going to increase a lot at the best, much the 30 km per hour but no more, and this

occurs because of the revolutions that a 250 w motor that does not revolutionize or work

empty, so if you want to increase the speed you will have to put a battery of more tension

of 48 volts in this case but already advance that are quite expensive

you also have to be careful with empowering engines of 500w or more on the front axle

then this 250 w powered on land of field sometimes you accelerate in curve and skate

a little bit the wheel so if you plan to buy a motor of 500w or more power I recommend you

you buy one of the rear wheel that goes to pull better

The truth is that I'm happy because that's what I was looking for more power to climb hills not

I want great speeds for that is the car or motorbike not a bicycle and well I hope

I have served the video I say goodbye a next video until soon