Hi, happy knitters and welcome back to my channel so today
It's going to be a video tutorial about the after the true afterthought heal with contrast toe heel and cuff
This is a video that you guys have been requesting
And I finally after several months have have finally finished filming it so it took a few a few months
So you may notice some nail polish changes throughout the video so that is
particularly why
this is going to be the sock that is in this tutorial as you can see as a contrast Hill toe and
cuff and I did something a little different on the
The afterthought heel as far as the closure
I did not do the Kitchener stitch I did an alternative to that that I was trying out on this hill so
You will not see the Kitchener stitch in this tutorial
But there are plenty other tutorials out there that will show you how to do the Kitchener stitch
Besides I'm not that great at it myself
I mean I can do it, but I want to try something a little different
And I will give you my opinion on the closure that I used in this tutorial at the end so stay tuned for that
So you'll see how how what I want my thoughts were on that so throughout this tutorial?
I will be referencing my first video two at a time sock tutorial with the Flegal Hill because in this tutorial
I do show you the complete sock, but there are parts of this tutorial
They go a little bit faster than others because I've already
Slowed that down in that particular video, so I'm going to be referring throughout this tutorial to that other video
And I will put a link down in the description box below so that you can reference that it'll also be in the link above
In the to this tutorial so you can just click on it if you need to refer back to it
So I hope you guys are going to like this tutorial
Like I said it has been highly requested
And it's been a long time coming so I hope that you enjoy if you could give this video a thumbs up and subscribe
And tell all your friends about it. I appreciate it. Thank you
So the materials you're going to need for this tutorial is going to be one skein of yarn
Divided evenly and in this case I use knit picks felitti in the colorway rainbow
You are also going to need to have another skein for your heels toes and cuffs
And I use patent Kroy sock and the colorway flex
So you are going to also need a pair of scissors some bulb-shaped stitch markers a tapestry needle a
progress keeper
You are also going to need for me. I like to knit my socks with the size u.s.. Size
12.25 millimeter, but whatever needle size that you normally knit your socks in would be fine, and you're also going to need a tape measure
Okay, so I'm going to start by showing you a sock that I knit last year with contrast heel toe and cuff I
Think it'll make it a little bit easier to understand what we're going to be doing in this tutorial
So let me grab my sock blockers and put those put that on for you
So you'll be able to see it a little bit better
You
Okay, so now that I've got the sock blocker on so basically we're going to knit the sock toe up
So as you can see we've got a contrast toe heel and cuff
And this is going to be with the afterthought you thought heel
And we're going to start with the toe and work our way up
And we're going to put in or cut in the afterthought heel once. We are done completely knitting the body of the sock
So now we are going to start with the cast on for the toe, and you guys have seen this in my other
Tutorial and I'm going to link it up in the description box below because in that tutorial I use waste
worsted weight yarn
So it's a little bit better for you to see
But I will tell you that I like to use for my toe up patterns or toe up socks
I like to use this same free rounded toe
Pattern by Lynn Ashton on Ravelry it's a free pattern
And it just gives your socks a really nice
Round toe instead of the wedge look if that's what you're wanting to go with so I highly recommend this pattern if you're looking
more for a rounded toe
So here we're gonna use the Turkish cast on because that's my cast on of choice
And of course you can use whatever cast on
That you like in that you are familiar with but we're gonna start with a slipknot
And I want to encourage you guys to watch my first tutorial because I go a whole lot slower on that
Particular video the two at a time video with a fleegle heel, but I will show you in this video
But it's going to be on sock yarn, and it's going to be a little bit faster, so first we start with the Slipknot
You put the Slipknot on the bottom of your needles of course
This is Magic Loop
So your needles are oriented with the tips pointing to the right and now you're going to make
The number of loops that you like for your socks and in my case since I use land Ashton's pattern
I will loop around 14 times
from the front to the back, and I will do this for each of
my socks
So once you have the appropriate amount of stitches for the first sock you're going to secure that
Sock by putting the yarn in between the needles
So that you will secure that that yarn and you want to go back and double check to make sure that you have the correct
amount of stitches on your sock needle
So as you can see here, I did not have the correct amount so I just made the adjustment and
Now the first sock is complete just want to double-check
I like to double check and double check because you
Don't want to start a sock and then find out later on that you don't have the right amount of stitches
You
Okay, so now that we are done
Casting on for this first sock. We're going to do the exact same thing for the second sock
we are going to start with our traditional Slipknot and
then we are going to take that Slipknot and place it on the
Bottom needle for magic loop for the Turkish cast on we're gonna slide it right on exactly like we did the first
Sock and then we're going to Snug that
Slipknot up and then we're going to start wrapping from I think I own the first one I said from front to back
But it is actually
From back to front so we're gonna put on fourteen stitches. I'm sorry fourteen loops and
Then we're going to go ahead and secure
those fourteen loops by putting the yarn in
Between the needles to secure it
You
So let's double check our loops to make sure we have the correct amount on and then we can continue
with this tutorial
Okay, so now we have both of the loops for both socks on so now. We are ready to begin
the process for the Turkish cast on
Okay, so we are going to pull the bottom needle long and
Then we are going to take that loop that was securing the other loops
And we're just going to just gently just drop it off
with our finger holding that first loop in place
So we're going to take our needle, and we are going to insert it in between the needle and the cord
This cord is kind of clear, so it might be a little bit difficult to see
but then we're going to just knit off the first stitch and
We're going to continue in this method knitting each of the loops
until we get to the end of
the sock
You
So now we're coming down to the end of the first sock and
As you can see there is a slipknot on the bottom loop. We are not going to do anything with that Slipknot yet
We'll take care of that later on in the sock
So now we're going to continue on with
the
second sock and we are going to
Drop that loop as we did on the first sock and just kind of gently just drop it off, but keep
securing that first loop with your
finger and we're going to insert the needle in between the cord and
the needle and then we're going to go ahead and pull a little tight on that first stitch and
we are going to knit it off as a normal stitch and
We are going to continue in this method on the second sock just by knitting each of the loops
You
Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock and
we are going to knit that live stitch and
As you can see the Slipknot is still attached, so we're going to keep it on there
And we're going to flip our needles over and we're going to get back to ready position
for Magic Loop, so
We're pulling the top cord
back through
To get the needles back oriented into Magic Loop position with the points still orient it to the right
You
So now we are going to pull that bottom needle
long and this time we are going to take the
First slip knot off and just drop it. We don't need it anymore
okay, so now you are going to insert your needle through the first loop and
You are going to pull just a little tight on that first one and you are going to just knit the stitches
off the
Needle
You
So now we are coming to the last stitch on this first sock and
So we are done the Turkish cast stone is pretty much done for this first sock
So now we're going to continue on to the second stop sock
Just make sure that you when you're doing magic loop you remember to drop your working yarn before you pick up the other working yarn
For the second sock, so you don't actually knit end up knitting them together
So we're going to insert our needle into the second sock. We've dropped the
Slipknot, and we're going to tug up just ever so slightly on that first
stitch and we're going to take the tail and pull a little bit because I kind of
Cinches it together, and we're going to knit across
This second sock as we did the first sock and you'll be finished with that Turkish cast on for that sock as well
Okay, so now we are coming to the end of the first stitch so now we are going to be ready for it starting to
increase on our toes
So let's get back to Magic Loop position
Which is always with us pushing our top needle back into our stitches and pulling our
bottom needle out to begin knitting in the round
You
Ok so now we're going to pull our bottom needle long
And we're going to knit the first stitch and then we are going to make an increase in
For the second stitch you can do a make 1 left
Make 1 right, whatever you're comfortable with but I do have a new
Video called a yarn over increase that makes it super simple
And I'll list a link above for you to click on, but I think that is probably one of the easiest and most simple
Increases for
for socks so basically you're going to
Like I said earlier in this video
I'm using the Lynn Ashton pattern, so I'm following her increases for the toe, but if you just want a traditional
Wedge toe it would be knit 1 increase go all the way down to the end of the first sock and you would increase
One and then knit the last stitch and you would do that every other round so it's going to be a increase row
On the on the front and the back you're gonna do it all around and then you're gonna do an even row of knitting
Where you're just going to knit without any increases so whatever method or pattern that you like to use for your?
Increases this is where you would
Follow that those instructions
And you're going to perform these increase and even rows until you get to the desired
number of stitches that you like for your socks my stitch count for these socks and all of my socks are
64 but yours may be 56 yours may be
60 so it just depends on what your width of your foot is and kind of what you what you normally like to knit as
far as the stitch count for your socks so continue to do your
Increase row your even row until you get to your desired number of stitches
And I'll show you what to do next in regards to changing the color for the body of the sock
Okay, so now I want to show you so we have finished
I have finished my increases on my socks
and I forgot to tell you a little bit earlier you want to put a
Aggress keeper on the front to tell you which is the front of the socket?
Which is the back because they'll tell you when you have completed around?
So I have gotten to 64 stitches on my stitch count
But as you can see the toe is still somewhat tiny
So I want to show you just on a sample some of the socks that I've knit in the past and as I told you
Before it's a it depends on your preference as to how long you want your color for your toes
So it really is just like I said just depends on what you want so on this first sock
my toe my first color change is almost exactly two inches on the dot on the
Second one. It's slightly over two inches, but you know pretty much around that that same
amount so what I like to do is I like to try on the sock to see what is what what it looks like and
If I'm comfortable with the color change so you will continue to knit
Evenly without any increases with your toe color and then come back
And I'll show you how to add the second color
So now it's time to check to see where we are as far as the length of the tow and
So we're gonna take our tape measure and we're gonna measure from the bottom of the toe to where we are and in my case
We are let me adjust the tape just slightly we are pretty much at the two inch mark and that's kind of where I like
To have my socks and as you can see
Now we're getting ready to start the next color, so now you want to get your your main color ready
And you should have already divided those out evenly and generally speaking
It's about a hundred grams of yarn for a sock without color changes
So if you've got that much and you've divided them into 50 gram balls
You should be you should have plenty of yarn to make two socks, so now we're getting back to
Magic Loop position
And we're gonna pull the bottom needle out and so in order to do a color change
It is very very simple so are you going to start by just?
Grabbing about
The grabbing the beginning of a yarn and leaving probably about six inches of yarn, and you are literally going to take
your needle
and you are going to
insert it into that very first stitch as
You would as you're getting just like you're getting ready to knit the first stitch which which we are
so we're gonna insert that needle and
Then you're going to take that
Yarn that you've kind of folded over and give it and have a little bit of an eighth inch
I'm sorry six inch tail and you're just going to loop it over
the needle
Leaving like I said six inches or so because we're going to use that to weave in
the ends after we have finished the sock and
then you're going to
just take it and
You're going to pull it through hold on to it, and you're just going to pull it through as if you're going to knit
And then you knit it off
Okay, so what I like to do now is I like to take the tail of the yarn and drop it
Because we're not working with that right so
Now you are going to
Knit with the working yarn. You're going to just like you normally would so you are going to
Put it through
The second stitch
And
You're just going to knit normal now. What's going to happen?
Is that first stitch is going to be a little loose?
But that's okay because that is what happens when you change in the change colors in the round or change colors
Generally so that is not going to be an issue so now you're just going to start knitting with
the new color as
Normal, and I'll show you what happens when we get around to back to the beginning of the round
You
Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock don't forget to drop your working yarn from your first sock and we're
Going to do the exact same thing with the second sock
Okay, so I'm grabbing my yarn from my second scan my second ball and
We're going to do the exact same thing. We are going to insert our needle into that first stitch as if
to knit and
Then we are going to like I said leave about a six inch tail we're going to fold it over
And we're just going to slide that loop on and we're going to knit it off
Okay, and then we are going to continue to
Knit make sure you drop the tail
because we're just want to make sure we're working with the yarn that is coming from the skein and
You're just going to knit evenly
With that skein I'm sorry we go with that with that yarn, and you are going to
Continue until you have completed one full round of knitting with your color change
And then I'll show you what happens when we get back to the beginning
So we have now completed one full round of knitting with the new colorway and
We want to make sure we get ourselves a Jess adjusted and keep our
Yarns from getting tangle, so I'm gonna pull zoom in a little bit
So you can see so you can see this so now
As you can see we still have our working yarn the new color on the back needle
And we've got a tail from the new colorway, and we still have our old color
The flax seed color attached to the ball, so now we're going to grab a pair of scissors, and we want to cut
that
Toe color because we are done with it for the moment
and we want to leave about another six inches of tail because we want to be able to weave that in later and
So now you're done with that that toe color, okay? We're going to set that that scheme aside
We're done with it so what I like to do for my color changes is
to keep everything kind of tight and snug I take the two ends and I
will
Basically not a knot but I just tie them together
securely and
then I take those two ends, and I just push those inside the sock and
We I kind of forget about them for right now
So that's what we're gonna do where I hit right here. Is we're just going to push those tails into the inside sock and
We are going to forget about them until we get ready to weave in our ends at the end of our
our knitting
So let's go ahead and get ready to start knitting again
So now we'd like to say we've completed a successful color change
and we're going to insert our needle into the first stitch and we're going to tug up tightly on that stitch and
We're just going to continue now that stitch may still be slightly loose
But that is not going to be an issue like I said earlier
We'll take care of all of the the tightening when we get to the end as we're finishing up the sock
So I will show you again one more time on the second sock how we join in our our second color
You
Okay, so now we're coming to the end of the first sock so drop our working yarn
let's go to the next sock and
once again
We have our working yarn
With a new color coming from the back, and then we've got the tail end from the new yarn on the front
And then we've got our old
color
Still attached to the ball, so we're going to take a pair of scissors, and we're going to cut that
Yarn, and then we're just going to tie the two ends together and snug up
those two ends
So that we can later on
Come back
and and weave in those in so give it a good snug and as you're knitting you will notice maybe on the second and and
maybe even the third row after the color change you might have to come back in to these come back in and
Tighten those up just a little bit because like I said they're gonna still be a little on the loose side
But that is not going to be an issue and but if it bothers you you can
continue to tighten until you are one or two rows above the color change so now you're just going to go ahead and
Continue to knit with the new color
and
you will do that until the
sock measures 2 inches
From your total foot and I will show you here in just a moment a diagram that
Will make it a little bit easier for you to understand so you're going to continue and to knit with the new color until
Your that until that sock measures two inches short of your total foot
Okay, so now we're back and
We want to
Stop knitting in our main color
when we get to where we are two inches short of
Our foot so from the beginning of the foot you're going to stop two inches short
Okay, because this is where we're going to be placing our locking stitch marker our bulb stitch markers
for the back of the heel
so guys I place my stitch markers at two inches, but
Someone like Kirby were beyond her tutorials she does one in three quarters
so I can't really tell you exactly where you should place yours it just depends on what you
What you what you think you need?
So this is the front of the sock
So you are going to knit the instep all the way till you get to the back?
and then I'll show you what to do once we get to the back of the sock on the
Heel so that I can show you where to place the stitch markers, so just knit evenly across
the front end step
You
So now we have finished knitting across the front of the sock, so now we're to the back of the socks
so basically we are going to
Knit evenly on the back until we get to that very last
Stitch and this is where we are going to place our stitch marker and the reason why we do that
We're going to do it on both socks the reason why we do that a reason why I do that. This is not mandatory for
afterthought heels, but I think it's if you are new to
The afterthought heel is easier to put stitch markers where you are going to insert your needles
When you're getting ready to pick up your stitches
It's just like I said it just makes it easier so this first
Locking stitch marker is going to represent
one side of the heel
Where we are going to it's like it's basically like a place marker is what it is
And you'll understand it a little bit more when we get to actually knitting the afterthought heel, so like I said
Just go ahead and knit all the way down till you get to that last stitch and we're going to place a stitch marker
on that stitch
So we are coming to the end of the sock and you're going to go ahead and and knit that last stitch
Normal, so just go ahead and hit it normal because now we are going to
Now add the stitch marker?
and
You want it to be one of the ones that can open up whether it's so it can be this bulb stitch marker
Or it can be any other stitch marker
these are somewhat thin in nature, and I like those the other ones tend to be slightly bulky and
So I like these a little bit better, so you're going to insert it, let's see if I can get it a closer shot
You're just going to insert it into that last stitch and just let it hang out there
Until we finish the sock so now that we've added that
We are now going to knit across
This sock and do the exact same thing
You
We're coming to the end of the second sock so now we are also going to do the exact same thing
We're going to take a locking stitch marker, and we're going to place it on that very last stitch
You
So at this point we want to once again
knit the front stitches and
Then we'll talk about what we need to do when we get to the back stitches for our second stitch marker
Okay, so we are back on the heel side again of our sock and as you can see that's where we place the first stitch
Marker, so now it's time for us to place
The second stitch marker and this time we're going to place the stitch marker
Dead center based on the number of stitches that we have so for my sock
I have a total of 64 stitches so 32 on the front and
32 on the back, so I'm going to place my stitch marker at
16 but if you have a 60 count stitch
Sock then you would place your marker and 30 and actually for this particular one you just have to get closed
It just has to be somewhat some close to the middle it doesn't have to be dead on a spot Center
Because this is the stitch that we are going to cut
For to start unraveling for our afterthought heal, so it just needs to be somewhat
close to the center, and so we're just going ahead and knit as
We normally would the back stitches and then when we get to the halfway mark we're going to place our second locking stitch marker
You
So now we are approaching the halfway mark on our sock and like I said for your sake or stitch count may be slightly different
So we're going to take our second locking stitch marker and put it on the stitch that is at the halfway mark
You
So now that we placed that stitch marker
We're just going to knit to the end of this sock and we are going to repeat the same thing on the second sock
Okay, so we are approaching the end of the second sock
We've come to that first stitch marker
just knit normal and ignore it hanging out there, and so now we are going to start on the second sock and
put this stitch marker at the halfway point
You
Ok so now it's time to place
the marker on the second sock
and
once we do that then we'll just continue to the end of the sock and
I'll show you where the place the last locking stitch marker
You
So once you come to the end of this row go ahead and knit across
The front stitches on the both socks and then come back around to the back heel
Okay, so now we're to the back stitches once again
And so this time the stitch marker is going to be
Placed at the beginning of this round so it's going to be on the very first stitch of this sock
So basically we're doing this because we want to once we finish the sock
We won't necessarily know where our 30 where our stitches are on the back needle
So this is basically marking the stitches for the the first the first stitch on one
side and the last stitch on the other side
so go ahead and place your locking stitch marker on that very first stitch and
So this is the last stitch marker that you are going to need
That will help you with the afterthought heal
Now is this necessary to do absolutely not like I said earlier in the tutorial
But for first-time afterthought heal if you've never done it before it actually kind of helps
So that you're not concerned about where to begin the afterthought heal as far as where your first stitches
You
So now we're on to the next sock
so let's go ahead and place that locking stitch marker where it needs to be on the first stitch and
Just knit evenly to the end of this round
You
So now we are done with placing all of our stitch markers yay, so we are going to be now back
This is just showing the back of
The sock just for reference so you've got three
markers on the back one at the first stitch marker
one in the middle on the row below and one on the in the row below that one so you should have a
total of three stitch markers per sock
Okay, so we're back to the beginning of the round and I want to bring back the other
Afterthought heel sock that I did just so you could just to show you for reference again
So you are just going to?
Continuously knit in the round and as long as you want your leg to be until we get to the ribbing part of the sock
So now go ahead and just continue to knit in the round for as long as you would like to have your sock leg
So now I have knit my leg of the sock to the length that I like I like a sock
That's a little bit longer than an ankle sock so that kind of works for me
But you can knit your sock to the leg to the desired length that you like it to be
So now we are ready on my sock to begin
the ribbing portion of the sock so
We're going to grab our
contrasting color and
We are going to start knitting with that ball of yarn now
Here's a note for ribbing when you are
Starting a color change on a row where you're going to begin ribbing
always
On the color change round knit and even round before you start the ribbing
So if you were to start the color change and
Immediately start ribbing then you'd be able to see the color change through the purl bumps
And that's not what we're wanting for a very clean look
for our color change so as we have done before we are going to grab our our color and
We are going to
Insert our needle into the first stitch as if to knit
Be sure and remember to leave at least a six inch tail so that we can weave that in later that helps us with
Tidying up and making sure that we don't have any holes in our socks
So let's go ahead and insert the needle into the first stitch and we're just going to loop the color change
Over the needle like we did for the socks, and we saw it looked like we did for the toes
Sorry, and then we're just going to continuously knit one even round with this color change
You
So don't forget that you want to drop the tail and just work with the yarn that is coming from
the ball of the yarn
You
So continue to knit across the first sock and do the exact same thing for the color change on
The second sock and I'll meet you back at the beginning of the row
You
So now we're back to the beginning of the round for the second sock and as I said earlier
We're going to continue to do the same thing on this sock as the first sock so make sure
The most important thing that you can do is to make sure you leave enough tail to weave in
for the color change
So are you going to leave probably about another about six inches of tail like I said before
you're going to insert your needle into the first stitch and
wrap that new color
over
The needle pull through and sew and then knit your stitch off
And then you're going to make sure you drop the tail of
The yarn and you're going to pick up the working
Part of the yarn and just continue to knit with the new color
You
Okay, so we have knit one even row all the way around with the new
the contrast color for our cup and so now it's time for us to
cut the
Yarn from the main color because we don't need that anymore
for this portion of the sock
So let's leave about a six inch tail on that as well and let's just go ahead and give it a snip
So let's go ahead and tie our ends together
Just to secure those so that they won't come undone
and we will take care of that again as I said earlier at the end of the sock when we're finishing it up and
That way it'll be make a little bit of a less loose stitch
for that first stitch on the needle
So just snug it up as tight as you can and then take those two ends and just kind of tuck them inside the sock
so now
Once you do that we are going to begin our tube. I like to do two by two ribbing
That is a personal choice for me. It is up to you
You can do whatever type ripping that you like on your socks one by one two by two
One by three whatever is comfortable for you, and this is where you would begin doing that
So be sure on that first stitch to make sure that stitch is
somewhat tight because you want to make sure that you're not leaving any holes for gaps or or or
You don't want your
Sock to have laddering so go ahead and continue as you would in whatever ribbing that you have decided on
I'm gonna go ahead and speed through this or cut this part particular part out if you need to reference
Specifically how to do it go back to that first tutorial with the fleegle heel
It's a little bit slower
And you'll be able to understand a little bit better if you're not sure how to do
The ribbing on this sock so this I don't want this tutorial to be too too long
so we're gonna go ahead and speed through this part, and we'll come back, and I'll show you how I
cast off
So now I am finished with my ribbing idea at 20 rounds I'd like to do 20 rounds of ribbing on my sock
That's a personal preference
As always so it's nice and stretchy, and I actually love
Two by two ribbing so now it's time to do the jinnee surprisingly stretchy bind-off
Okay so in order to start Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off. We are going to start with a reverse yarn over
unlike the traditional yarn over the that goes from
Front to back we're going from back back to front on here, so we've done the reverse yarn over
and then we're going to knit the second stitch normal and
Then we've got two stitches on our right needle so now we're going to pass
one stitch over the other stitch
So, I don't know what it is, but for some reason this
Patent Kroy sock yarn. It was very splitted throughout the whole knitting of his sock
So it was I was not really a huge fan of it
And I've used patent Kroy before so I'm not sure if it was just this particular skein or what but not a fan
okay, so now we're going to do another reverse yarn over and we're going to knit the second the next stitch and
Now we've got three
Stitches on our right needle and we're going to take that middle stitch and we are going to pass it over
the last stitch and
So now we have two stitches on our needle now. We're going to take the other stitch and pass it over
That's the second stitch and now we will have only one stitch left on the needle
So now we are coming to a purl stitch and what we want to do is wrap the yarn
From the front to the back of the needle when we are presented with a purl stitch that's coming up next
So loop the yarn around the back side of the needle, and then we're going to purl
normal and
Purl off and so now you will have three stitches again on
your right needle and you can pass those stitches one at a time over or
You can how the option of passing both of the in stitches over at the same time?
It's just a personal preference. There's lots of tutorials out there on genies surprisingly stretchy by
I know in this tutorial with working with fingering weight. Yarn is a little difficult to see so I encourage you to check out
Those tutorials as well
so we're back to another purl stitch so we're gonna wrap from the front to the back and we're going to insert as
If to purl and we're going to go ahead and take those stitches off
One at a time or two at a time depending upon what you like so you will continue in this method
With Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off, and I will see you at the end of this sock
You
Okay, so now we've come to the last three stitches on the first sock and we're going to go ahead and
Pull those over to where we have one stitch left on the sock now. This is what I like to do
I don't know what others do on their socks
But I don't like to leave just one stitch on a needle especially when I'm doing two at a time
it just seems a little fiddly to me so actually what I like to do is I like to take a locking stitch marker and
I'd like to place it through that last
Stitch and I take it off the needle you certainly don't have to but that's actually what I like to do
So by doing this we don't have to worry about that one stitch being left for me anyway on that
needle, so now this that needle is free, and I can start knitting on the
Second sock without that one stitch being left
So we will complete Ginny surprisingly stretchy bind-off on this second sock
And I'll come back and show you what we do with the sock that has the locking stitch marker
So I've completed nearly a full round of binding off on this second sock
So now I'm down to the last three stitches of this sock, and I'll show you what I do next
You
We only have one stitch left
The needle so I like to pull that that stitch up and I will cut the working yarn
And once I cut the working yarn, then I will thread it through the loop to secure
The sock
and
Then we'll come back at the end, and we'll weave in our ends, but this first sock this
I'm sorry this was actually the second sock. It is completely done is super stretchy the bind off looks
Amazingly great. I highly recommend this bind off for any of your toe up socks. I think is a really great
Bind off and so so when you bind off like this
There's a little bit of a gap in between where you bind off versus where you start we're going to close that up
When we weave in our ends at least that's how I do my socks
So now we've got this one sock left with this extremely long cord
And so we are going to position our cord where we're going to continue with Magic Loop
so we're going to still take the
the
front needle and push the
Yarn in just like we do it would normal regular magic loop
but what we're going to do with that back needle is I'm going to take the
Locking stitch marker off
and
Put it back on that back needle
You
So just make sure you pull that loose
Stitch a little bit tighter and now you will just continue with the jinnee
Surprisingly stretchy bind-off where you left off?
And you'll go ahead and do that across the back stitches on this sock and you will complete
It just as you did the other sock
So I'm going to go ahead and fast forward so that we can get to the end
You
So this is the final three stitches on our last sock
And we will continue in bind off in pattern with Jenny surprisingly stretchy bind-off
And we will end up doing the exact same thing that we did on the first sock
You
So go ahead and cut your working yarn and
Weave it through the open loop or however you like to
into your stitches and
we are done with the main part of both of these socks and
Now it's on to the afterthought heal
So we are now done with the main body of the sock
We are going to pick up stitches from the black locking stitch marker
And we're going to pick up stitches from the yellow
Locking stitch marker and of course the one in the middle is holding the stitch that we're going to cut
Okay, so we're ready for the afterthought Hill my sock is oriented to where the
cuff is at the top and the
toes are at the bottom, so what we want to do is go ahead and
Insert our needle into that first stitch that was holding
that was held by the black locking stitch marker and as you can see I've picked that up and
We basically want to pick up the right leg of every stitch on that
Row it's going to be a little difficult to see because this entire row is pink, but I will tell you
that it's very easy to
get off on a row when the color is the same and I actually did that on the back of the sock, but I
Realized that and I started I pulled out the stitches that were on the the
incorrect row and
Put them back on the needle the correct way
So I'm going to be picking up 32 stitches on this back on this back needle because that is how many stitches
That I did on this back back row so I had a total of 64 stitches
So I'm gonna pick up 32 so depending upon how many?
stitches you
Cast on for your socks if you may if your sock was 30
I'm sorry 60 stitches you're gonna pick up 30 stitches
so just make sure that you stay on try your best to stay on the right row and
Not go on a different row like I did
So I suggest that when you are doing the afterthought heel to make sure that you are in a well-lit area
So that you'll be able to see your were you picking up your stitches and sometimes you have to spread your stitches out
to kind of see where the the
second where the right leg is so just talk I said take your time and just
methodically pick up the right stitch and then just kind of come back and look to see if
You have picked up the right
row for your stitches
you
You
So we're coming to the last stitch
on the back of the sock
and make sure
You count is very important account
To make sure that you have picked up the correct number of stitches for your socks and in this case like I said mine was
32 and
Fortunately I did have 32 stitches on
The needle so now what you want to do is you want to pull
The cord your needle through where the cord is now
on the needles because it'll make it much easier for you to pick up the remaining stitches so turn your sock over and
So now we want to pick up the first stitch on the other side, so this is the or the yellow stitch marker yes
So this is going to be stitch one after we've turned our sock over and I'm gonna pick up
32 stitches on this side
So go ahead and
Make sure you methodically like I said pick up the stitches if it's your first time doing the afterthought Hill
Don't get frustrated. There are times when you might have to pull back the needle out of the stitches because
For some reason you missed a stitch, etc, but it's that's not a big deal like I said
It's just one of those things and as you get used to
The afterthought Hill it gets easier as you continue to do them
And so don't get frustrated
By if it's your first time picking up stitches for the afterthought Hill because I've done probably
three or four socks with the afterthought Hill, so I wouldn't consider myself to be a
professional by any means and sometimes I have to pull back my work and
It's okay. It really is okay, and just look at your work
And if you need to spread your stitches out to make sure that you're picking up the right leg, that's okay as well
So here's a tip maybe for first-time
afterthought Hill knitters you might want to
Put your or put your mark the stitch markers locking stitch markers where you have a color change
Where mine is kind of in still in the pink section you might would have maybe put your stitch markers where the pink?
And the blue changed that way you would have to pick up stitch
stitches on the pink side and on the blue side so that might have made it a little bit easier for
You to see that's just a tip as I'm going back and looking at and
Narrating of course this tutorial that probably would have been a little bit easier easier for your you guys to see
You
And for some reason when I was picking up stitches on this side of the sock
I was actually having trouble picking up the stitches and you probably can see that
But I didn't of course just get discouraged like I said, I just took my time
Picking up the stitches, and it was I don't know for some reason this yarn was a tad bit on
The splitty side and this is a nitpicks
Felitti and I never have issues with that so it's probably more of a user issue than anything else so
But yes, I'm like I said just picking up the stitches taking my time
And I'm not fast-forwarding through this part of the tutorial because I want you guys to see
Everything my struggles with it etc
You
Okay, so I'm just plugging along and plugging along and you will see in just a few short
Moments that I realized that I'm picking up the wrong row
toward the end, and I know why because the color actually changed on this row and
so therefore I
Missed the row somewhere halfway
Because I thought I was still picking up the right row and I was not and once I
Pick up the last stitch you'll see where I realized that I have picked up the wrong road
You
I
Don't know if you can see where I've picked up the wrong row
But now I realize that I have so don't panic just pull the stitches back to where
You were on the correct row and then go back and start picking up the correct rope. It's just that easy and
simple I
Say that but really maybe not
No it really is that simple I'm just kidding you
Just like I say you just have to be
Patient and take your time when you're when you were picking up stitches for the first time with the afterthought heal
And you should be perfectly fine
You
So here
I'm just taking a step back to just make sure that I am picking up the right stitches because sometimes when you come and come
To that middle stitch marker it's a little tough to go past it to make sure you're picking up the right
Stitches, but like I said if you just continue on
You should be
a-okay
You
Now we'll go ahead and just forward fast forward just a little bit until we get to the end of this road just so that
This video is not going to be too extremely long
So let's go ahead and do that
You
Okay, so now that we've come to we're coming to the end of the sock
On this side so what we want to do is we want to make sure that
We count our stitches as we did before to make sure that we have picked up 32 stitches or the number that you need on
This side of the sock
So in my case I have picked up too many stitches
So just slide your needle back and take out the number of stitches that you don't need and reinsert your needle
And you should be fine, so go ahead and pull your cord through of course you want to make sure that you leave
A loop on the other end because this is magic loop right so now
I've turned my sock around and I want to get into
Ready position, but what the first thing we're going to do
Is we are going to?
snip
the
Stitch that's being held by the red locking stitch marker
here's the fun part or at least I think it's the fun part the
unpicking so go ahead and grab you a good pair of scissors and
What you want to do is you want to snip?
Make sure and only snip
That first that stitch that's being held, so you want to get either another set of needles
Or in my case. I just pull through a little bit
I'm gonna use the needles that I actually am knitting with but whatever your preference is you can grab another
Second set of needles and start unpicking now. I will tell you I had the most difficult time
on picking this particular sock
And I think it was because of how I picked up the stitches
somehow this the
The yarn was interlocked so I think I may have this was and this is what happens sometimes when you split
stitches when you're picking them up your
Unpicking of the stitches is not as clean as you would like it
But unfortunately you just kind of have to work through it and hope that
You picked up your stitches a little bit more cleanly than I did on this sock
The struggles are real guys
You
So I might not be the best example for
I'm picking these stitches in this particular video
But just know that if you pick up your stitches cleanly you shouldn't have any struggles, but like I said
This is real life here, and if you are a first-time
Afterthought heal this this could happen to you, so I'm gonna go ahead and let you
See the struggles through this video. I might speed it up toward the end
But like I said, I did have issues picking up these stitches
and
Like I said, this is this is real life for me
I'm not a perfectionist when it comes to knitting but I kind of my kind of a go-with-the-flow kind
of person so if you are a
Perfectionist this probably would drive you a little crazy, but like I said
in the end if you just take your time and
Go through pick up your stitches correctly
Then you may not have some of the issues that I have had this is the first time actually that I've had issues picking
Picking the stitches apart, so I'm not exactly I couldn't really tell you exactly what happened
I think I split some stitches because sometimes when I'm doing tutorials
It's kind of hard to knit when the camera is kind of in your face, so I'm not blaming that on that
but that very well could have been what happened in this situation so
Anyway, so like I said just continue to unpick your stitches
We're going to do once. I like to do one side normally and then come back and do the other side
But that is absolutely a personal preference you can do you can split you can pick up the stitches on some some on one side
And then come back and pick up stitches on the other side or you can go back and forth. There's no right or wrong to
How you pick up the stitches?
Okay, so now we we seem to be past the sticky part so pulling
Unraveling the yarn is going to go by much faster
Now the key to having an afterthought heals with no holes is to make sure that you do not
Unravel to the very end of your sock
Okay, so you want to continue to unpick your stitches until you have about two stitches left on this side of the
sock and
Therefore that's going to keep you from getting a hole in your in your sock
So just like I said just continue to unpick until you have two stitches left on
this side
Okay guys you see right here I
Accidentally split a stitch from the back side of the other sock when I was picking it up
It's kind of hard to explain, but I'm going to fix that when I get ready to start
Knitting again, but I did I split the stitch from the back side
I don't know how I did that, but I did like I said, this is a real-life knitting
You
Okay, so now we have two stitches left on
This side of the sock
So just take that tail in and just tuck it in tuck it on the inside of the sock
So now we want to start on the other side
And we want to do the exact same thing we want to unpick all of our stitches until we have two stitches left on
this side
Okay, so I'm going to speed up on this side because I don't want you to necessarily see the struggles on this side as well
Because you saw them on the first side, but just um pick up pick all of your stitches until you have two
Stitches left on that side as well, and we'll come back and I'll tell you what's next
You
So now we've come to the last two stitches on this side, and we are going to
take our yarn and put it on the inside and
I ended up having to cut part of my yarn out on this side because
it was stuck so bad so now my tail is a little too short, but we'll fix that at the end of
The sock one over when we are weaving in our ends
So look guys we have a nice hole in our back sock for our heel like I said, don't worry about that part
That's hanging on. I'm gonna fix that in just a moment so now we want to get back to now we want to get to
Magic Loop ready position, and we want to grab our contrast yarn color
Because now we are going to start knitting
with the secondary color and
You're going to start the same way that you did with the ribbing. We're going to leave about a six inch tail
On our secondary color we're going to like I said get back to ready position by inserting our needle
back into the sock and we are going to pull the back needle long and
We are now ready to start knitting with our second color
So insert your needle into the first loop drape your new color over
pull it through, so you knit one stitch off and now drop the
tail of that second yarn and
Start knitting in the round now. You'd normally with the afterthought heel. You would usually knit
It not actually it's a personal preference once again. You can knit two full rounds to give your
Afterthought heel a little bit more depth, but for me. I find that I need to knit a full five
Knit rows even rows before before even starting the decrease because of the way that my heel is
Okay guys, so the way that I picked up my stitches all of mine
Stitches on this side or oriented the incorrect way so basically they're sitting on the needle backwards
So in order to fix that I would I'm going to just knit through the back loop
and that will twist twist the stitch the correct way or you can take the stitch off the
Needle and orient it back the correct way, and then just knit normally so now we've come to the stitch where I accidentally picked up
Split the stitch on the back, and I'm sorry that I got this off of camera
but basically what I did was I slid that stitch off and
And made sure that that split stitch was was put back on
Correctly so that it disconnected from that back stitch
I know it's hard to explain
But just know that I fixed it and so now we're going to continue to knit across
the front stitch and as I said
I am knitting through the back loop of each of these stitches because of the way that I picked up these stitches
And if you are a knitter of any time you'll know when your stitches are backwards. It just feels funny
When you get ready to insert your stitch and also you can look at your stitches and tell that they are oriented
Incorrectly, and if you notice that like I said you can just knit through the back loop as I'm doing here on every single stitch
or
Change the orientation of the stitch correct it put it back on the needle, and there's knit it normally
so I forgot to tell you to go ahead and place a
stitch marker
Or locking stitch marker marker on this side of your sock underneath where you're knitting so that you'll know that
You're at the beginning of the round when you get to decide
So now we're done with the
first side of the sock and
So you want to take your new colorway the tails and make sure you put those on the inside of the sock
So that we can weave those in later
But as I said earlier
If you want to go ahead and knit five extra rounds five five rounds or even on your sock you definitely can do that you
May have a little bit more room than you intend to it's strictly up to you
I know that when I met my first afterthought heel
I only knit knit two even rounds before the decreases, and it wasn't quite enough so I adjusted that
On future socks, so honestly it is really up to you as to
How many even rounds you want to knit before you start your?
Decreases so you will continue knitting in the round for the specified number of
Stitches that you would like I'm sorry the specified number of rows that you would like and then we will come back here
And start the decrease row
So on this row as well
I had to knit through the back
Stitches the back because I orient these and when I picked up the stitches on this side as well
They were oriented incorrectly which is not a big deal
So just knit your stitches based on how they are oriented on the on the needle and you should be fine
But once you do this once you or once you knit through the back loop or you reorient them correctly?
You don't have to worry about that with the rest of the sock because they will be oriented the correct way
You
So now we knit one even row a round of knitting for our socks
So I'm going to pull back the camera so you get a better angle
So we are going to continue to knit evenly in the round based on the number of rows that are
Desired for your sock before we start the decreasing
Okay, so I have knit my five even rows and I wrote you earlier that I place the stitch marker on this side
So I would know when I got to this side
I was at the beginning of the round so we're going to now start the decrease row we're going to decrease at the beginning and
the end of each side of the sock
So now we need to get to ready position
And we are going to begin our decrease row so the first thing we're going to do
is we're going to knit the first stitch and
Then we are going to perform an SSK
Which is a slip slip knit stitch?
Go in as if to knit and you're going to slip that stitch off on
The second one you're going to do the exact same thing go in as if to knit and slip it off
And then you're going to take your left needle and put it in front of those two stitches
And then you're going to knit those stitches off and now you have made one decrease
So now you're going to knit across the stitches on the front needle all the way to you get to
The last three stitches on this needle, and I'll tell you what to do next
You
So now we're down to the last three stitches on the front needle, so now we are going to perform a knit two together
for these neck twos next two stitches by
Inserting your needle into the next two stitches and knitting those together
And now you've made one decrease and then on the last stitch you're just going to do a normal knit stitch
Turn your work over
get back to ready position for Magic Loop and
Then we're going to do the exact same thing on the back needle
So we're going to insert our needle into the first stitch on the back side
We're going to knit the first stitch and then we're going to perform an SSK as we did earlier slip slip knit
Put the needle in the front of those two slipped stitches
And then we're going to knit those two together and knit those off of the stitch
off of the needle and it will be a decrease and
Then we're going to go ahead and knit across
To the other end of the sock until we have three stitches left on that end and we will perform a knit two together
You
Okay, so now we're down to the last three stitches
We will perform a knit two together and then knit the last stitch on this
Needle, so what's going to happen
Now is the next row is just going to be a complete round of knitting even with no
decreases so what's so what we're going to do is we're going to do a decrease row and
A knit even row and a decrease row until we are down to the desired number of stitches that we want to have
So for me the general rule of thumb is however many stitches that you cast on for the toe
Would be the number of stitches that you would decrease down to for the heel so I cast on fourteen stitches for
The heel me and sorry for the toe
So I'm going to decrease down to fourteen stitches on the heel
So I'm not going to show you the decrease and the increase row because I've just shown you right now
So I'm gonna fast forward
This until we till I have gotten down to the fourteen stitches because I'd like I said as earlier
I don't want this tutorial to be just too too lengthy
So we're back and we are down to the desired number of stitches that we would like
So here I would advise you if you would like because we are not going to I'm not going to show you the Kitchener stitch
This is where you would perform the Kitchener stitch if you were
Going to I would put in a lifeline here
just in case you do not like the alternative method that I'm about to show you and that way you can rip out the
sock and go back and put in the Kitchener stitch if you need to
So I just want to mention that I do not own any rights to any of the techniques in this tutorial
This the new behind off that I'm going to show you I saw on
Addicted to sock knitting Facebook group that was knitted that was posted by one of their
members her name was Melanie Carol, and what she likes to do instead of the
Kitchener stitch she just likes to do a knit two all the way around and
Close off her hoes as you would the top of a head?
So this is a method that I tried for
These socks for the heel
I literally just knit two together all the way round around and then I closed up the the
Heel as if I would have had now. Here's what I have learned from this technique from knitting
This this way on the back of the sock. I think that I should have
Decreased a little bit further than 14 stitches because of this method
because I think the decrease on this basically almost negated the 5 even rows that I
Knit evenly forth to give me a little bit extra room
so like I said this was my first time trying this method and
Basically you're going to knit like I said knit two stitches together all the way around very simple very very simple
And gives you a nice look on the heel
But I should have probably
decreased down to at least 10 stitches and
That way that would have given me the extra room that I need it on in this sock now
This is a disclaimer that I'm going to tell you about this method. I have not
Worn this sock with this by knitting the two at a time
On here, so I don't know how it's gonna wear in comparison to the Kitchener stitch. I think that knitting
Is just a work of art, and you you need to try things
And I am definitely one of those people to try things
I don't like my needing to be stressful the Kitchener stitch is not stressful. It's just something that I have to look up
Every time that I do it because I don't do it often so I think doing the knit two togethers
that's very intuitive to me and
I actually like the look of it at the end when I when I when I finished it so
Like I said I tried it in this tutorial to give you an alternative
to the Kitchener stitch
But like I said I would advise you that if you're going to do it to knit too decrease a little bit further
Then pass the number of stitches that you started with
Just to give you a little bit more room in the heel if you need it, okay
So now I'm done with knitting the the knit twos together all the way around so I'm going to cut my yarn
as if I would the top of the Hat, so
I'm going to thread a tapestry needle
And I couldn't find the one that I needed for
This tutorial so I had to make do with a smaller one and let me tell you that was a little challenging
But just go ahead and thread your needle through your tapestry needle, and I'll show you what to do next
Okay, so now I've got my tapestry needle threaded so now we're just going to start threading
the the
tapestry needle through each of the stitches and basically taking those off of
the needle
And we're going to continue to do that on all of the needle all of the stitches on the front needle until they are completely
Taken off, and then we are basically going to
pull the yarn through those stitches and
We are going to pull pull those generously through until the whole entire tail of the yarn is through all of those stitches
And
Then we're going to turn around turn the sock around and do the same thing for the back stitches just
Take those off and I've actually need to pull the needle through to the other end
To orient that correctly to get those actually to slide off of the needle so push your needle
Your stitches through your needle
And get those oriented right now. Go ahead and slide those off of the needle onto
I'm sorry off of the your knitting needle onto your tapestry needle, and then you gonna pull those through
Just like you would the top of a hat
So now you can see why I think I should have decreased a little bit further because it actually tightened up my
heel
Just a little more than I would have liked to but I think I can negate that by adding a few more rows of
knits and
decreases so now you're going to take your what I do is I take my
Needle and take it and put it through the hole, and I will turn the sock
inside out
To close up that hole, and then I would just basically
Weave in my ends too to close up the hole
Now like I said
I have not worn this sock to see how it wears with this type of a closure
But I don't see how it would be any different than
If you were to do this procedure or do this technique for the toes and like I said
Melanie hasn't had any issues on her socks
With
Doing this for the toes, so I figure you know what I'll just try it for the heel so
That is the alternative for the Kitchener stitch
I don't know if you're going to like it or not like I said it is restricting up to you
Whether you want to try it, but it's just nice to have an alternative if you don't like the Kitchener stitch
And there's no scientific way to
weave in your hands
just make sure you do the best that you can and that you've closed up the hole on the
Stitches you do want to make sure they're nice and even
You may want to make sure that they're even
When you're doing this because you don't want any bulk to be on the back of your heel because that may be a little bit
Of a discomfort to you, but see as you as you can see it looks like it's a pretty good
nice-looking heel with this type of method
Okay, so this is what the heel looks like once you have
Woven in the ends it's kind of a nice looking heel not too too bad, so
We can compare it to the Afterthough Heel and see what which one you like the best as far as the aesthetics
Okay, here. They are side by side the gray is the
Alternative method the green is the Afterthought heel and as you can see the Afterthought heel has a little bit more of a boxier
Look, but I think like I said if I had just decreased a little bit further with the gray it probably would have given me
a little bit more room in the heel of
the sock
Okay, so let's turn our sock inside out so we can start weaving in our ends where we have the color changes so the first
One up is where we change the color at the toe so remember
How we just kind of tied it across to make a knot in a knot
But just tied it in a loop so basically we're going to take each of those ends on
The the color chain and we're going to weave those in going in the opposite direction so that
It will so that the hole would stay closed up in our socks
You
Now remember to do this for every single color change that we had in this sock like I said just make sure
There's no scientific method or knitting method for weaving and ends just make sure
You get a good amount of
That you are confident that you have woven in the ends so once you do this one side
Then you'll go ahead and do the other side going the opposite direction and that should secure all of your color
changes throughout all of the socks
So go ahead and do that for all of the color changes that you have on the inside of the sock
Okay guys
so we are done with knitting our sock this tutorial has done a little bit longer than I
Wanted it to but like I said, I wanted to explain everything in this tutorial and as you can see there are no holes in
This sock on this side or the other side because we did not
Take our stitches out all the way when we were doing the afterthought heel, so I hope you guys have enjoyed this tutorial
please like and subscribe and let me know if there's any other things that you would like to see in tutorial form I
Appreciate you giving me the love and support that you've given me on this channel
And I definitely appreciate it so I will talk to you guys later
Also, if you guys have any questions about something that I may not have covered in this tutorial
Please do as you have always done and contact me Arsen leave me comments at the bottom of this
Tutorial and I'll be more than happy to try to come back and explain or help you out on an individual basis. Okay. Bye bye
You
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