okay so thank you for joining me again for honeybee frequently asked questions
session number four so there are three prior videos where we answer a lot of
questions all the questions that I'm going to answer are going to be listed
down in the video description so you can see if I'm going to cover something
that's of interest to you this is designed for beginning beekeepers so if
you're an advanced beekeeper there probably won't be anything exciting here
that gets covered today so welcome to those of you who are new and still
learning and have seen my other videos and are still with me that's great
thanks a lot if you notice in the opening we have twenty five degrees
today snow still flying I have a squirrel eating out of my squirrel proof
feeder and then hanging out in the tree and mocking me so we're gonna move right
along thank goodness we have a nice warm space here where we can talk about bees
and hopefully I shared some information that's beneficial now these are the
questions that were submitted if you have questions about bees that are not
covered in the other sessions that we've done please write them in the comment
section below this video and we'll look at those and I'll start building that
list again for the next honeybee frequently asked questions video so the
first one is from Francis Moore do I worry about hot bees from Texas so this
actually comes up quite often in fact even in my bee Club there was a guy
recently that asked me about the bees that I use and where I get them and I'm
using the bee Weaver family bees from Texas and historically people have been
concerned about bees coming out of Texas because of course our African bees
they're the African genetics are there so the risk is of course that
Africanized bees might be coming out of Texas and so do I worry about it well I
think that the Weaver family has that pretty well under control
they do have Africanized bees in their genetic line but they are also breeding
with German black bees Italians and Caucasians so but I am vigilant in other
words when I get a bee I usually buy in Queens from them because they live too
far for me to ship actual package bees or nucleus colonies so when I get
those Queens I'm very aware of their behavior and if the attitude of that
colony of bees is very hot it's been my experience recently that
the the most offensive bees that are attacking things are actually coming out
of Florida and not Texas I think it's on the shoulders of the breeders to make
sure that they're not shipping out hot stock that they're not working with
genetics that put people and livestock at risk and we did a video earlier last
year that dealt with a family in my area that usually had bees brought up from
Florida and they there was a shift in those bees and they started to attack
their livestock and the beekeepers so it was kind of a tough situation no matter
where you get your bees from you always want to be aware of seasonal behavior of
the colony as well as the overall colony disposition and depending on where
you're located that's going to become a big issue because you do not want bees
that are overly defensive that start to act like Africanized bees they're a threat
to people their threat to livestock and you just don't want to have any
incidents around so it's not that I'm worried about my stock specifically
because of the genetic history of the bees and I'm working with because
they've arrived varroa resistant hygienic traits from bees through their
genetic continuation through the years and I did notice that you know eight or
nine years ago I was getting bees from that family occasionally I would get a
hot colony but that hasn't happened for years now so genetically they have been
modifying and improving those bees and currently I have had no problems with
any of the stock that I get from Texas but no matter where you get your bees
if you're bringing them in or if you know you get a feral colony or if
you get a swarm always be aware of the disposition and be prepared to deal with
them you might just have to remove the Queen and re-queen I know the Weaver
family if they ship you a queen and she turns out to be hot you know you know
that 30 days after you've installed her then of course you let them know and
they will replace the Queen of course and you can just get rid of the one that
you have by the way if you have to kill off the Queen
Don't just throw the Queen away get a little vial like a test tube and or a little
plastic bottle like an eye dropper bottle and you put that Queen in there
with alcohol and then you let the alcohol evaporate down and crush up that
Queen and now you've got a queen lure so that you can capture swarms so even the
Queen that you have to get rid of is not wasted but no I'm not terribly worried
but I am constantly aware of what my bees are doing and what their behavior
is like so also you could look up marla Spivak marla Spivak is spelled Spivak
she did a great YouTube seminar where she discussed hygienic bees and traits
and behaviors and how those genetics are working for us rather than against the
bees okay so the next question is from 6deep6 venting flow hives and
upper vents okay so the way the flow hive is designed they have screen boards
on the bottom of those corrugated removable boards and the flow hive 2
has a tray on the bottom and it's got a vent in the back that you totally
control by flipping it up or down closing it off or opening up the venting
they don't currently have a gabled roof system if you look at the flow hives
they have the gable topped roofs they don't have vents built into those there is
some venting because the whole hive up there is not airtight but you can add
your own vents so what I did was I went out to the garage and I got a front
piece from the flow hive 2 - so the flow hive 2 is the smallest one it's a six
frame flow Super which is an eight frame Langstroth hive now when I'm putting
vents and want to control the venting on the upper side of any beehive sometimes
I'm just making a shim for an upper access which could also be your feeder
box right now the flow hive this is the depth of their roof so you can see
there's no room here for a decent-sized feeder really because we need three
inches of height or whatever so you could put fondant or something in these
but the other thing is venting you're gonna have to do that yourself so I
would recommend that just above the O here you drill a
three quarter inch hole and then you're going to Center this plate I'll put a
link to these plates i buy them also on amazon this just happens to fit exactly
the face of this flow hive 2 front now the flow hive the seven frame flow hogs
which are ten frame Langstroth this is even bigger so it absolutely fits that so I'm
showing you the most critical application so you don't install this
here and these things are pretty cool sometimes you see them made out of
plastic I don't care for the plastics because my hives a lot of them are
facing south they get a lot of Sun and the plastic over time is going to
degrade these metal ones last a long time so of course is to screw in the
middle this would be the full open position then when you turn it if you
have these slats face down here these slats are going to allow workers through
they are the same opening sizes that you have on Queen excluders so if you're
putting together a NUC or something you don't want that Queen to fly out
this would allow the workers in and out and would keep the Queen so it's just
like a queen excluder only it's for the 3/4 inch hole or whatever size you
decide to make it then if you're trying to just vent it or if there's been
robbing issues or something like that and you want to close off a weaker
colony and you still want to vent the top this would be that setting because
these are just vent holes and then you have the option of course to close it
off completely so right now to answer that question six deep six you uh you
have to make your own hole and you have to be prepared to control that entry
route but by opening that up to your field bees you are speeding their
access through this this is the inner cover for a flow hive and you just pull
that plug out and then so they would be coming through the cable end and they
would be going down into those flow supers through that center hole so you
can control that then the wintertime you can just close this off and that limits
of course it eliminates access up above and then that's also you would close off the
front of this so there you have it I hope that answers that question now
maybe in the future I hope the people at the flow hive
group there will give us an option for maybe a taller top that would allow for
feeders to be installed like the rapid round or some of the deeper higher
capacity feeders because keep in mind where this thing was made and where they
currently use it primarily down in Australia they're not they're not
worried about the kind of winters that we have so they're not thinking about
you know uh preventing and and wintering over and having food resources that we
can control up in the top there so you either have to make your own shim the
way it is now or maybe they'll come up with something later so that's a good
question so now we're on to number three open feed drinker station location types
of drinkers okay I did not put down who asked that question but the question is
about I do a lot of open feeding in my be yard and primarily that's because I
test feeds and I study the drink that they're gonna take and salinity because
we're also giving them a teaspoon of sea salts with pure filtered water we're
also testing the syrups and the different food boosters and things that
they're they're liking and disliking and so I use these little yellow one quart
feeders I could put a link there's also I'll put a link in the video description
that shows my studies of the feed supplements and the salinity tests that
I've done and you'll see those feeders there one quart each if I'm open feeding
the station is gonna move this year so I'm moving my station farther away from
my Bee yard and it's going to be to the west it's going to be a hundred yards to
the west of my apiary and I open feed with gallon feeders like this one which
comes from Bee smart design open trough here by the way I was looking on Amazon
and people are very unhappy with this design of a feeder but this is when I
look at the pictures this is actually an improved feeder so if you're buying
these open feeders these are designed also to go into a
medium super so you can feed inside your hive and prevent robbing but most of
those complaints are from a design that's several years old so this is the new
design the bees this will not be full of dead bees there are more spikes here
preventing the bees from getting up under it and there's a raised lip here
that keeps the bees from coming in around the sides and when it sits there
also there's been some in the past there were springs in the bottom here that
would lift it up and then the bees could get in around this edge up in here up
into the tank but you can see now that they even empty it sits flush on the
bottom there so if these are level these are the ones that are used for open
feeding because they're a whole gallon now why would I open feed well as I said
before because we do testing and I want to see what honey bee preferences are I
also like to see what comes to the feeders including the wasps and hornets
that visit those feeders and it's a great way to observe what's going on in an
area where the bees are not defensive so you can sit right there without any
protection at all and just sip your tea or your coffee and watch those bees and
look at their overall health if there's even varroa on the bees you get a chance
to sit and look at them but it takes the pressure off of robbing so if you've got
a dearth period and the bees are really putting pressure on the colonies in your bee
yard and they're really challenging those guard bees on the landing boards
you're going to of course put entry reducers on those landing boards you're
going to make sure that they can defend themselves but you can also relieve some
of that foraging pressure by providing open feeding about a hundred yards from
your hive from your colony and your apiary so when you do that they'll go
there and they won't be so desperate to get into these hives plus you're going
to help them out in a time of dearth other than robbing each other and
killing each other off hopefully so that's how I open feed I'm always kind
of checking out different feeders but mostly I'm testing the syrups that we're
using essential oils you know we don't even know it's as essential oils or
providing health benefit for the bees but I do
like to mix them as per the manufacturer's instructions and set them
all out and see what the bees are going after and what they're avoiding so far
when we've done open feeding and we tested essential oils the bees show an
enormous preference for filtered water in one to one sugar syrup above
everything else so if now if we go down to nothing but essential oils with sugar
syrup first for all the tankers and then we add the essential oils in there now
we can see of all the essential oils which one that would prefer the most and
that's coming up also this spring so open feeder types of drinkers those and
the little entry the yellow and black drinkers that I use are
technically entry board feeders I don't like to use entry board feeders because
all the feeding is happening right at the entry of the colony and you don't know
if they're being robbed so if you create pressure right there I recommend that
you feed through the hive top feeders like this thing up here or installed in
medium supers empty ones that are designed just for feeders so that would
accommodate things inside they can get their resources it is important
especially in the spring because look what can happen your bees are gonna
start having brood and they're going to have a lot of stress on the resources
that they have and if it starts raining the foragers can't get out and they have
to brood to care for so you can at least provide the energy end of that by giving
them the carbohydrates they need ok so the next question from pepper Sanchez
Queens what's the purpose of clipping the wings on Queens ok when you buy in
Queens for your bees sometimes they come in the package you know when you're
ordering package bees from a breeder they give you lots of options with the
package you get a 3 pound package or a 5 pound package and then you pick the kind
of queen that you want and then they offer you marketing the queen so they'll
mark the thorax usually it's just a you know paint dot red or blue or something
like that and that's so you can spot her quickly on your brood frames the other
thing is you want to know if that Queens been superseded if that
different queen than the one you bought because they can swarm you won't even
know and of course there's a new queen in there and unless you really know what
that Queen looks like you may have a new queen and not know itself other than
marking them for identification can also clip the wings so if you clip the wings
on the Queen then that means she can't fly away now what does that do for the
bee behavior inside the colony first of all when they decide to replace a queen
they're gonna replace that queen and whether she's marked or not so it could
work to your advantage because a clipped Queen I currently have two colonies
right now who's who have Queens in them and their wings are clipped now what's
gonna happen is if that Queen finally wears out her welcome she's not
performing well and all the nurse bees turned on her and stop feeding her she
starts losing weight and they start chasing her around the colony and then they're
gonna swarm out when she swarms she'll try to fly so she might fly 20 feet from
the colony and plunk right down in the grass when she does that the the swarm
that goes with her are going to protect her even on the ground so you're gonna
have no problem collecting that Queen so when they do swarm they ultimately will
because they don't just decide that the Queen's worn out that they're done with
her and they don't just kill her off they actually drive her out of the
colony and the swarm goes with her so when that happens if she's got clipped
wings she's not getting very far sometimes they just go right out of
landing board and plunk right down to the ground right in front then you have
a clump of bees on the ground in front that's not a beard of bees that has
fallen from your hive that's actually a swarm and a queen with clipped wings
trying to get away so then you can just collect them and create a new colony so
it's actually easier for you now you know if you use clipped Queens or have
good stories about that I'd love to read about that in the video description so
if you've got some story about what a clipped winged queen did when she
swarmed out those would be interesting to read about and I would welcome that
so thank you that's a good question powdered sugar for mite control we
recently talked about the exotic vaporizer and we talked about that I
use verow resistant hygienic bees that have gone without treatment for many
many years and this year we're going to be doing
testing with the Oxalic acid vaporizers and somebody commented down there that you
know couldn't you just put powdered sugar and control the varroa that way
well the way my bees controlled varroa infestation and the colonies now is that
they groom each other so and I've posted videos of this hygienic behavior and
it's almost like coming into a car wash the foraging bees come in and they
unload their nectar they unload their pollen whatever they do and then they go
to a little spot and these grooming bees go all over them and they follow their
antennae they groom their wings they go down every foot and they cover head to
toe these worker bees so if there's varroa on there they're gonna get them
off so and that's that's why I have these survivor line beads to begin with
is because they have this hygienic behavior that prevents varroa from
succeeding and they don't get into those cells of open brood and they don't get
in there and reproduce when it gets capped in the pupa state so the point
is they're grooming everything off before it gets that far
but if you don't have those hygienic bees and you've got straight Italians or
something could you just take powdered sugar
look I just happen to have a bag here this is powdered sugar and I think it
has this is a kind that has some cornstarch with it so if you see
powdered sugar with cornstarch the cornstarch is generally there to keep it
from clumping and because remember powdered sugar is usually to be used for
glazing and things like that so it also helps make it more syrupy is that
harmful to your bees probably not because remember you're just going to
dust all of your bees with powdered sugar so that they go you know powdered
sugars on me and they start grooming it off because it's sugar they like it
they're gonna be licking each other they're gonna clean off all of their fur
and then the thought process is that the varroa are going to lose their footing
and they're going to fall off so and they do do that
the question is how effective is that as a method for controlling
varroa it's actually not terribly effective so you have to open your hive
to do it you have to expose your brood you know brood frames to do that and
that's where you're gonna spread your powdered sugar over the top and then the
sugars gonna collect on the top edges of your frames and then you're gonna take a
brush and brush it off of those so it goes down and on to all the bees and
then the bees are going to move the powdered sugar around and they're gonna
groom off the mites so then what happens if you have a solid bottom board those
mites are not injured they're just groomed off so if they follow the bottom
board they're just gonna scoot along the bottom and go up the walls and go right
back to the brood frames and you gonna find themselves a worker bee and they're
gonna get back on her so or they're gonna get into those drone cells so the varroa
are pretty fast moving so this has kind of been tested a lot it has a method for
getting the bees to actively groom each other and so the sugar stimulates that
if you're trying that method you also want an open screen bottom board so they
fall right out go to the ground and can't get back in the hive and while
they're down there because they have sugar on on the ants we're gonna get on
the ants are gonna eat them so the ants are gonna get sugar carbohydrates and
they're gonna get protein because I'm gonna eat those bites so yeah you'll
knock them off but it won't be effective as an overall means of controlling
varroa in your colony and that's been proven out by many studies Randy Oliver
did actual studies on sugar dusting as a method for controlling varroa and it was
not a very strong method for that control
so check out Randy Oliver and look up varroa control with powdered sugar and
you're gonna find they have published papers on that he actually did research
so for me I don't think it's great so I have survivor line bees so they don't it
doesn't change anything that they do anyway because they are ready groom each
other but if you have a line of bees that doesn't actively do hygienic things
so they don't groom each other they don't remove dead bees very well and by
putting powdered sugar on them you are going to simulate some of that behavior
but realistically you're not going to want to put powdered sugar
on your bees every week so maybe rethink that okay and then I had a note here
from Kevin Wilford who commented after we did the Oxalic vaporization
demonstration we talked about the different irons and how you use them he
suggested that you might want to pull out your oxalic vaporizer iron right
after it sublimated all the crystals that are in it and the reason is he
thinks that when you you put it in there and it gets hot and all the vaporizer
goes away you know we leave it in there six to ten minutes overall so that it
cools down in place and then we uncover everything and pull it out he thinks if
the bees go down and actually attack the iron because it's foreign to the hive
and that they're actually getting burned and killed before it's completely cooled
down so you might be able to save some bees by pulling out your oxalic
vaporizer right after all the crystals have sublimated and gone into the air in
there so if you have experience with your oxalic acid vaporizer and you have put
it in there and some of you are pulling them out right after they've cooled down
for me that's two minutes and 10 seconds in if you're pulling them out right away
do you notice you know that there aren't two or three dead bees on it as compared
to if you leave it in there until it cools for six to ten minutes and then
you pull it out do you notice that there are more dead bees in your iron that's
something that we're gonna pay attention to I'm gonna do both methods we're gonna
pull it out after the two-minute ten seconds and we're gonna leave some in
for the full six to ten minutes we're going to pull those out I'm going to see
what the difference is but if you have experience with that with that please
share it down in the video comments section it'd be very interesting and
thanks Kevin for that question and then what is a fume board and what is it for
alright so if you've been watching my channel and I hope you have if you don't
normally watch my channel please subscribe and go ahead and click like on
this video and there are going to be more frequently asked questions videos
like this one in the future and hopefully as the weather breaks and it
gets warm outside we're gonna go outside and actually show you live bees I'm not
just gonna sit here in the warmth and comfort of the studio here and just talk
about it but the fume board is I use flow hives
now so when I'm taking honey off it's out of flow frames so I don't need a few
more because I'm not pulling the frames out to extract honey I'm just opening up
the back draining it off and collecting it if you're interested in the flow hive
I'll leave a link in the video description so you can read more about
those if it's new to you and also if you use that link you can actually get $50
off if you buy something from that company and then I get $50 to buy more
stuff for myself but let's say we're traditionalist let's say that we've got
honey supers with standard frames and you're inspecting you say well it's full
of honey and it's ready to be un capped and now I can start my extraction
process so you go out there and you look at the frames and they're ready to go
now you have to get your bees off of the frames and it's a pain for some people
so they pull up the frames one by one and they inspect of course to see that
it's all capped and it's all ready and there's no brood on that frame then
you're gonna take your brush and sweep off your bees and then you're gonna put
that frame and some holder that you've got hopefully that's covered because
you're gonna have to get those frames back to your honey parlor and you're
gonna do your uncapping and filtering and everything you're gonna spin it out
so getting the bees off easier is oh look I just happen to have this honey b
gone the natural way this is a scent that's not harmful to bees
but they don't like the smell of it so they're gonna abandon it so this from
back when I was taking honey the old way this is a fume board so what you do is
you're gonna take your telescoping cover off of your beehive then you're gonna
take the inner cover off and then you're going to inspect and this is where you
want to get the bees to leave the honey super so this takes the place of your
hive cover and it has a nice cottony fabric texture on the inside here and
you're gonna take something like this honey be gone by the way which is made
by honeybgone.com so then you would spray this board and spray that fabric
and you're gonna make sure that this nice strong smell there and then you're
going to take this and you're gonna put on top of your beehive and then you're
gonna leave it there for three to five minutes and you're gonna want to do this
on a warm day you shouldn't be extracting honey anyway if it's a cold
day because the honey's not gonna run it's gonna be a lot of extra work for
you it doesn't extract as fast it doesn't drain as fast as and filter as
fast and you can't bottle it as fast so what a nice hot day this works even
better so then you leave that on there and just like the oxalic vaporizer
irons I recommend I have three or four of these and the reason is that when I
used to take hunting out that way I would get this going and put it on one
colony then I would go to the next colony pull the cover off pull the
inner cover off look at the frames that I want and if that super was full and
ready to harvest and I would take another one of these and put it on that
one you know spray it put it on go to the next one by the time you put the
third or fourth one on the third or fourth colony that you're gonna harvest
from you come back and the first one's ready to go didn't you take it off and
magically all your bees have revolted and they've gone down into the lower
boxes so now you have a frame that's void of beats you'd have to blow them
off you'd have to brush them off you just pull the whole thing and put it in
your cart or whatever else you have hopefully that's covered so you don't
have bees following you back it also results in fewer dead bees it's less
hassle you you still should smoke your colony whenever you're going in there
but that's it that's what a fume board is for so those are the questions that I
have for this time if you have other questions regarding beginning with
honeybees and you want to know more you want to see something please write it
down below in the comment section of this video and I'm more than happy to
talk with you about it and I'm really pleased with the number of questions
that are coming in and the interest that we have in beginning with bees this
is going to of course probably run out because in the spring when I can finally
get outside and start working with the bees I'm going to be spending less time
inside but I'm also happy to talk about products beekeeping equipment any bee
practices or theory about beekeeping so thanks again for watching and I hope you
have a great weekend
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