Youtube daily to make Feb 27 2018

Dear Viewers, Welcome to Paper Pyramid making Tutorial

You will need 1 piece 20cm x 20cm square paper for making Origami Pyramid.

Please follow the instruction step by step for making an Amazing Pyramid.

For more infomation >> How to make Paper Pyramid Easy | The Amazing Origami Pyramid Box for Kids - Duration: 4:14.

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How to Make Paper Rose Flower | Very Easy and Simple to make Paper Rose|DIY PAPER ROSE|Paper crafts - Duration: 7:22.

Welcome to my channel. Today i show you how to make paper rose.

diy paper rose make is not hard, try one or time you will

make origami paper rose. If you want to make please

Please follow my step by step instruction.

Don't forget to Subscribe like, comment and share if you like this video.

Thank you very much for watching this video.

For more infomation >> How to Make Paper Rose Flower | Very Easy and Simple to make Paper Rose|DIY PAPER ROSE|Paper crafts - Duration: 7:22.

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Barbie Doll Cake Decorating Tutorial - How to Make Barbie Doll Cake Decorating - Duration: 1:01.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Hope you have a great time

Please, like, share, comment and subscribe for more!

For more infomation >> Barbie Doll Cake Decorating Tutorial - How to Make Barbie Doll Cake Decorating - Duration: 1:01.

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How to Make Wall Hanging/Wall Decoration Ideas/Diy Wall Hanging/Wall Hanging Craft Ideas/ Wall Craft - Duration: 5:19.

Please Like This Video

Please Like This Video

Please Comment This Video

Please Share This Video

Please Like This Video

Please SUBSCRIBE Now

For more infomation >> How to Make Wall Hanging/Wall Decoration Ideas/Diy Wall Hanging/Wall Hanging Craft Ideas/ Wall Craft - Duration: 5:19.

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How to make paper bird with simple folds by Art House | DIY for origami paper bird - Duration: 10:03.

https://www.infolips.com/

How to make paper wolf

For more infomation >> How to make paper bird with simple folds by Art House | DIY for origami paper bird - Duration: 10:03.

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Learn Colors Kinetic Sand Rainbow House Cars with Dinosaurios How to Make for Kids Nursery Rhymes - Duration: 4:26.

Learn Colors Kinetic Sand Rainbow House Cars with Dinosaurios How to Make for Kids Nursery Rhymes

For more infomation >> Learn Colors Kinetic Sand Rainbow House Cars with Dinosaurios How to Make for Kids Nursery Rhymes - Duration: 4:26.

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How To Make a Robotic Arm - Homemade Robotic Hand - Duration: 3:28.

How To Make a Robotic Arm - Homemade Robotic Hand

For more infomation >> How To Make a Robotic Arm - Homemade Robotic Hand - Duration: 3:28.

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How to make the oscilloscope DSO150 stand-alone. Battery Pack Kit - Duration: 11:09.

Hello everyone! Every beginning amateur radio at some particular moment

need an oscillograph I took myself to begin with DSO150

This is a good little oscilloscope, but it has the disadvantage of

despite its size it is absolutely not portable

that is, it only works from a power supply so if I want to measure

in some place where there is no network 220 then I can no longer use the oscilloscope

But there is a ready-made solution which will help make this oscilloscope portable

Let's go! to make the oscilloscope portable

There is a special set a specially modified rear part of the housing

This modification will help to make the oscilloscope absolutely portable

in the kit there is a step-up converter and

battery charger switch and special glass

for displaying the charger indication outside so you can see

Did the battery charge up or not? internal dimensions for the battery

rather large, and you can insert battery

measuring 73 by 55 millimeters and 5.5 mm thick

can be inserted inside large thick battery

this set looks like this way back

back cover. Here the attachment for internal circuit. In height, you can see

that it is much thicker than the original back cover this is done in order to

could be put here in this compartment a pretty large battery

you can put the battery large capacity

Also included is a switch glass to transfer light from the charger

self charger based on TP4056

for the charger and for the up converter

in the body are already made special notches where these parts are inserted

and a converter in order to power the oscilloscope

the converter is placed here. Here everything is very simple

Included also is a guide which shows where and how to connect,

the location of the battery, what dimensions of the battery can I put

how everything is inserted no difficulties

should not arise the only thing we still need it

special protective diode here is the diode 1n5819

but you can put almost any also need a capacitor

here it is indicated on 220 microfarads of 16 volts but any one within the range of 100 microfarads

and higher. I have such a capacitor you can put a tantalum capacitor

for example, such, or any other which ones will be more convenient for you to use

So let's get to the assembly The biggest battery I have

which can be suitable for the design of this Here such. The first thing we need

This change in the charger resistor defining the current so that the charging current is

the corresponding battery by default there is a resistor for 1 ampere current

but 1 amp for this battery is too much

so I'll put it within 500 to 750 milliamps. Also worth mentioning:

this kit may contain two different types of charging

in this case I have a mini USB connector But it can also be with

microUSB connector. That is, you can choose in the store the one that

you most suited. All links will be in the description.

You can choose this type of connector charger connector

as for you will be convenient. Now I will replace this resistor. And so a 1.2k resistor

We have already removed, and now We need to insert another resistor

I'll put a 2.2 k resistor the charge current will be approximately 500 milliamperes

Resistor soldered to 2.2 kΩ the charge current is set to approximately

500 ma Now proceed to

further assembly take the body and insert it

Charger It is easy to install

now take the glass which is intended for the direction of light

here is a special place for its installation carefully put

now the light from the charger will be displayed here at this point

Let's start assembling electronics The wire is soldered to the battery

this wire we solder to contacts Battery + and Battery- Charger

Power cord soldered you can now connect the charger

as you can see the red LED this indicates that the charging is in progress

and everything is fine check by voltmeter output voltage after protection

as you see 3.74 volts Great, then you can now solder

boost converter and customize it

[music]

this assembly is only for to adjust this boost converter

now check what voltage will be at the output

The voltage began to increase We need to raise it to about 9 volts

that's 9.1 volts, quite normal on these contacts I will install a capacitor

in the gap of this wire you need to put a switch

this switch which will stand here in the corps

so this wire is soldered And instead of it we will put the switch

the switch is soldered, Now you can collect everything

still need make and exit with

converter install the switch

the switch is tough does not stagger

The switch peeps out this side it's easy to turn it off. Now we begin

disassembly of the oscilloscope dso150 the bolts are already untwisted so I just

neatly disclose

You need to unscrew this card

bolts still useful to us the card will be installed on top of the battery

but before we install the board We need to connect the power to the oscilloscope

to the main board on the oscilloscope board is

socket for additional connector I did not solder this socket, and it was to this connector

we will connect to the "+" contact we will connect the diode

and to "-" we will connect a minus from converter. The diode is soldered.

through which it will feed "+" power. The excess should be cut off, and here we solder

wires that will supply "+" power for isolation I will

use a piece of heat shrink

to the second contact solder "gnd" supply gently turn over

we cut off excess contact now go to the converter

we connect "-" and "+". All right, all is collected.

now check to see if this will work or not turn on the converter

and the oscilloscope is on The oscilloscope will now show interference

it means that the oscilloscope was switched on in the test mode

but the oscilloscope turned on! excellent! turn off, and now

completely collect it so that the battery does not hang

I'll use gasket

of soft packing material all the wires are neatly located inside

do not forget to put a glass In addition I will put the gasket, like this

in order for the battery to accidentally not short-circuited with the board of the oscilloscope

install the board and screw it now neatly

we collect all the rest

Put on the lid, you just have to twist it and the oscilloscope has become fully autonomous

As you can see it works It works fine

it remains only to screw the screws And put the adjustment knob

And so, the oscilloscope became fully autonomous Now you can take it

anywhere and not depend on external power supply

quality of the material is good material - strong plastic

pleasant to the touch, and besides all goes in the complete set as a charger

and a step-up module that is, you just need to collect and use

I really, really recommend this rework! To make your oscilloscope completely autonomous

and that you can use it in all conditions

all links will be in the description. Once again, I recommend it! subscribe to the channel

leave your feedback. Bye everyone!

For more infomation >> How to make the oscilloscope DSO150 stand-alone. Battery Pack Kit - Duration: 11:09.

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How to make a Beautiful Amazon Water Lily Pad for kids-easy paper ideas - Duration: 11:48.

Amazon lily pad

Water lily pad

For more infomation >> How to make a Beautiful Amazon Water Lily Pad for kids-easy paper ideas - Duration: 11:48.

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In the Bender Kitchen: Chef Mark Vecchitto shows us how to make liquid popcorn - Duration: 5:17.

For more infomation >> In the Bender Kitchen: Chef Mark Vecchitto shows us how to make liquid popcorn - Duration: 5:17.

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How To Make Cake In A Mug - An Easy To Make Treat For Kids - Duration: 4:10.

How To Make Cake In A Mug - An Easy To Make Treat For KidsYou

Kaito chocolate cake in a mug there comes a time in everyone's

ketogenic life where you crave something sweet cookies brownies cake

But there's nothing that you've pre-made in nothing that is low carb laying around in under five minutes

You can have a chocolate cake that's rich delicious and sure to slam those cravings straight into the ground cake in a mug

chocolate cake in a mug that is

Absolutely divine and tastes just like you spent 45 minutes

Slaving away baking and in the oven the key to the perfect consistency is the egg?

combined with the absorptive powers of the coconut flour and the rising properties of the almond flour

The egg will coax the cake to rise even higher than you might expect and provide an extremely decadent

consistency ingredients 1 1 large egg 2 point 2 tablespoons salted butter 3

2 tablespoons almond flour 4 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 5

1 in 1/2 tablespoons area 3 tall 6 2 teaspoons coconut flour

7 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

8 1/2 teaspoon baking powder

instructions 1 measure out 2 tablespoons butter and put it inside the mug you will be using to

Microwave the butter for 2025 seconds until it mostly melted and hot add your sweetener to the melted butter

Note you can use any low carb low

glycemic sweetener for this read more at the best low carb sweeteners 3 add your 2

tablespoons cocoa powder to the butter 4 and your coconut flour almond flour

Baking powder and vanilla 5 don't forget the egg it will help the cake rise 6 mix the ingredients

Well until everything is combined, and there's as little lumps as you can get if you are going to make 2 servings

This is the point where you would measure the batter out into 2 mugs or two ramens?

seven microwave the cake for 60 75 seconds it takes

75 seconds in my microwave if you are making two servings

probably 50 60

Seconds would do the best

I never make two servings because I'm greedy eight while you're waiting for the cake to cook whip some cream in the mixing bowl

Optional 9 let the cake cool for a moment and spoon on the whipped cream optional

chocolate mug cake

405 calories

36.9 four grams fats five point eight six grams net carbs and twelve point three one grams protein

For more infomation >> How To Make Cake In A Mug - An Easy To Make Treat For Kids - Duration: 4:10.

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How To Make Birdy Boho Earrings: Jewelry Making Tutoria - Duration: 10:05.

We found a strand of these darling mother-of-pearl bird beads at a bead

show and we thought that these would make a delightful pair of earrings so

we're going to show you how to make the pair to this earring. Essentially it's a

hodgepodge of beads, a leaf charm and some bicones and we're going to show you

how easy it is to make this. The first thing you want to do is take a head pin

and we're going to use this head pin to make the first of our three dangles. I've

got my bicone crystal bead here. This is just a four millimeter bicone crystal

bead and I'm feeding it onto a head pin and I'm going to make a wrapped loop to

make my first dangling component. So to do that I'm using round-nose pliers, I'm

going to grasp the wire of my head pin right above my bicone crystal here and

I'm going to bend the wire toward me 90 degrees. Then I'm going to reposition my

pliers to the top of that little bend so that I'm grasping it at the 90 degree

bend but I'm going to bend that wire up and over the top jaw of my pliers, away

from me. And that makes the start of a loop. Then I'm going to take my pliers

and put the bottom jaw in that loop and finish pulling the loop around to finish

the loop like that. Then I'm going to grasp the loop across with my round-nose

pliers and I'm going to wrap the tail around the neck of that head pin two

times. And what that does is it secures that loop so that the bead won't slide

off and the loop won't open. Now I'm going to take my wire cutters and I'm

going to trim that wire and I've got a little end sticking up. This happens a

lot when you're doing wire work. I'm going to use my chain-nose pliers and

I'm just going to press that little end down just because we don't want any

pokey little pokey ends. And there's our first little beaded component,

see it there. And we're going to make two more of our little dangling components.

This time we're going to use wire. This is just 24-gauge gold wire. I'm going to

cut about a three-inch length of wire and I'm going to I'll start with the

leaf for fun. I'm going to feed the wire through my leaf, just like that. And then

I'm going to pinch the wire up over the top of the leaf so that my wire sort of

crisscross like that I'm going to bend one of them 90 degrees and then the

other one sort of straight up. And I'm just using my fingers and fingernails

for this. It just makes it easier. Then I'm going to make a wrapped loop and to

do that I'm going to use my round-nose pliers and I'm going to hold on to that

crisscross and I'm going to take the wire that I've bent at a 90 degree angle

and I'm going to wrap it around that neck like that and that way that wire

won't, or the bead won't, come off. I'm going to use my wire cutters to trim

that little end there. And then I'm going to make a wrapped loop in the top of

this. So to do that I'm going to do what we just did with that bicone bead, I'm

grabbing the wire right above where I made that first loop, I'm going to bend

the wire 90 degrees toward me, reposition the pliers, wrap the wire up and over

that top jaw, reposition to the bottom jaw, pull the wire around to finish the

loop, and then I'm going to wrap the loop by grasping the loop across with my

pliers and pulling the wire around two times, like that. And these wires kind of

overlap each other from the other loop or the other wrap and that's just fine.

I'm going to trim and then I see I've got a couple ends sticking up here so

I'm going to use my chain-nose pliers to press those ends down so they're not

sticking up. There's my second little dangling component. And for my third one

I've got a briolette bead and it's kind of similar to the leaf, so we're going to

do it the same way. I'm going to cut about a three

inch piece of wire here. This is of our 24 gauge wire. And I'm going to feed it

through the hole in my briolette. I'm going to do the same thing I did with

the leaf which is pinch the wire up and over the top of that briolette so they

crisscross. I'm going to bend one of the wires 90 degrees like that at the

crisscross and the other one I'm just going to use my fingernail make it kind

of stick straight up and then I'm going to wrap this the same way we've been

doing. I'm going to use my round-nose pliers to grasp that little crisscross,

pull the wire around the neck like that to make a little wrap, and then I'm going

to trim the wire. And then I'm going to make a loop: grasp the wire right above

where I just made that loop, bend the wire 90 degrees toward me, reposition the

pliers to the top of the bend, pull the wire around the top jaw, and I'm bending

that wire away from me. I'm going to reposition the pliers to the bottom jaw

and then pull that wire around to finish my loop. So I've got a finished loop

there. I'm going to grasp the loop across with my round nose pliers and I'm going

to wrap the wire around two times. And again I'm kind of overlapping or meeting

up with that initial wrap that I did. And now I'm going to use my wire cutters to

trim and then I'm going to use my chain nose pliers to press down any ends that

are sticking up, like that. I'm also going to straighten up my loop a little

bit. Here we go. So that's my third little dangle. Now it's the super fun part we're

going to assemble our whole earring with our special bead, our bird. To do that I'm

going to cut about a four inch piece of my 24-gauge wire and I'm going to make a

wrapped loop at one end of this piece of wire. So I've come down

probably about an inch there, a little over an inch, and I'm going to bend my wire 90

degrees like I've been doing, reposition the pliers, pull the wire up and over the

top jaw, reposition again to the bottom jaw, and pull the wire around. Now I've

got a loop. I'm going to grasp the loop with my pliers and then wrap this little

tail around the neck two times. And that's my wrapped loop. I'll use my wire

cutters to trim and I'll use my chain nose pliers to press that little end

down, so I've got a little end there. There we go and now I can assemble my

little center component here. We're making this piece that we're going to

add these dangles to. So to do that I've got my bicone first and I'm going to

slide on my bird and then my second bicone.

And now I'm going to start to make my wrapped loop, but I'm not going to wrap

the loop yet. So I'm grasping my wire right above that bead with my round-nose

pliers. I'm going to make a 90 degree bend, reposition the pliers so they're at

the the top of that bend, I'm gonna pull the wire up and over that jaw away from

me, reposition the pliers so the bottom jaw is now in the loop, and pull that

wire around. But I'm not going to wrap this loop yet. Instead I'm going to feed

on my dangles. So to do that I've got my briolette first then I've got my leaf

because I kind of want my leaf in the middle and then my bicone crystal and

now I'm gonna kind of pull them down into that little loop make sure they're

down in my loop like that. See they're nestled down in there. I'm going to use

my round-nose pliers and I'm going to grasp the loop across just like I've

been doing all along. It's a little bit trickier with my dangles there but you

can just make sure your dangles are down at the bottom of the loop like that. And

now I'm going to wrap the loop by pulling that tail around this neck two

times. And I'm going to trim and I'll use my chain nose pliers to press that

little end down cause I see I've got a little end sticking out. There we go. And

now to make this into a proper earring we've got an earring wire. And what I'm

going to do is just slide the loop under the earring wire and then when I get to

the part where it won't go past I'm going to use my chain nose pliers to

just slightly open that loop until the bird earring falls down in that little

little loop and then I can close it back up. And now I've got a darling pair of

Birdy Boho Earrings.

For more infomation >> How To Make Birdy Boho Earrings: Jewelry Making Tutoria - Duration: 10:05.

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The amazing benefits of kefir and how to make it yourself - Duration: 3:20.

- Hi guys, I thought I'd show you how incredibly

simple it is for you to make your own homemade kefir.

So this is my latest batch of kefir,

which is a fermented milk drink.

It's been drunk for centuries in places

like Russia and Turkey, and it's got a nice tangy,

slightly sour taste that I really like,

so I will just have this as a drink.

It's also incredibly good for you.

Just to give you a few of its very many health benefits,

it's an incredibly good source of probiotics,

much more so than yoghurt, for example.

There's about 30 strains of bacteria in here,

so exceptionally good for your gut health.

It can help with lots of different digestive issues.

It's also really good at boosting your immune system

and protecting your bone health,

so protecting you against osteoporosis,

not only because of its calcium content

but also because it contains vitamin K2,

which helps our body to actually assimilate

that calcium into our bones.

It's super simple to make.

The easiest way that I have found to make it

which is pretty fool proof, is to use these starter grains

from The Kefir Company which you can buy online.

And you get a little sachet of starter grains like this

which you just add to a litre of milk, mix it up,

you leave it for 48 hours and at the end of that,

you have kefir, like this.

Now I use cow's milk, I use organic,

full fat cow's milk to make my kefir,

but you can use all different types of milk.

You can use plant milk, you can even use water.

There's loads of different ways that you can enjoy this.

Just to show you what it looks like at this stage.

I'm using a wooden spoon because metal can sometimes react

with kefir, so I'm using a wooden spoon.

It's got a sort of set, curdled consistency.

It doesn't look very appetising, I have to admit.

But once it's all mixed up, it goes really smooth and nice.

But this is exactly what it should look like.

It looks like something that's gone very wrong.

All I'm gonna do is get a clean jar

and put three tablespoons of the existing kefir

into this new jar,

and then I've got some of my full fat organic milk,

which I'm going to add.

And then all you do is give that a mix.

I'm gonna put the top on and that will just sit

on my kitchen top and that will be ready in 24 hours.

And then you can then make another batch from that

and keep it going.

That's how easy it is to make,

it literally just took a few seconds

and it's really delicious and has such an amazing array

of health benefits that you might wanna give it a go,

and if you do, please do leave me a comment.

Let me know how you get on.

I hope you enjoyed my little kefir demonstration

and thank you so much for watching.

Bye.

(calm music)

For more infomation >> The amazing benefits of kefir and how to make it yourself - Duration: 3:20.

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How to Make a Silicone Mold and Cast Pewter! - Duration: 21:33.

Good morning! I'm Morgan Donner and today's video has nothing to do with

historical sewing, but that's okay, it's at least tangentially related because I'm

gonna be doing some experimenting making historical style jewelry from pewter and silicone molds.

A friend of mine, Centuries-Sewing, has recently been giving her hand

at trying to make historical jewelry based off of paintings in 3D modeling programs.

If you're not familiar with 3D modeling, it's really cool stuff, my

husband has made some really beautiful pieces, that he then sent to a company

that prints 3D models in metal and when they came back, they were gorgeous!

But, the main problem with that is that it tends to be a little bit pricey.

You do have the option to print out your stuff in plastic, which is great and way more

affordable but who wants to wear plastic jewelry?

So my friend asked me if I can

make a mold of one of those plastic 3D prints and then cast pewter into that mold.

I've never done anything like that before but it's a really good idea and

I'm excited to give it a try! So here's the plastic positive that she

sent me and it's super cute, but I can already see some issues with this print

for example these little rings here are gonna be way too small to try and cast

in pewter, but the thickness of the piece itself overall is good - that should cast OK,

so it's mainly these rings that we have a little bit of an issue with.

So I took one of these plastic prints that she sent me and added a two-part putty

called Green Stuff, as you might be able to guess why.... and added some to try and

make these hoops a little bit thicker. They're not A LOT thicker but they're

thick enough now that I think that they will cast a little bit better?

I'm at least giving it a better chance of success right?

Now that I've got my positive, that I want to make a duplicate of, I need to build myself a mold box and

then pour in my mold substance. I've seen people make mold boxes out of a number

of different materials: wood, plastic, metal, so on - a really affordable option that

I've seen is people using a sort of plastic corrugated board, so it's very

similar to cardboard but completely plastic! Unfortunately, I wasn't able to

get a hold of some today, and I could just be patient and try this video later but

I don't feel like it! I want to do it now! So I ran around my house looking for

something that might work, and this is what I've stumbled upon! A plain old

normal three-ring binder! Now the downside of this guy is that, almost

certainly, it's going to be filled with a papery cardboard inside which is not

great but you don't know until you try right!

So I'm gonna go ahead and start cutting this guy up to be our mold box.

Ignore this! Pretend that's not there.

Oh goodness! OMG, guys this is gonna be a major lesson in for the love of God,

do not do what I am doing! Just go ahead and buy some mold-making kits online,

they are not expensive, I'm just impatient! Ugh, okay! that was the worst guys

seriously don't do that so I'm just going to do some really bad scoring

lines here da-da-dah next up I've got my handy

dandy glue gun that I probably haven't touched in a year and a half so let's

see if it's still working definitely not warm yet all right so

while I'm waiting for my glue gun to heat up let's start worrying about the

pour spout for my pewter the first pour my silicone is definitely going to go

with this being face-up which is good and fine and all and I want to go ahead

and make my pour spout this way now normally what you would do to create the

kind of distance between the because you want your piece to be in the middle of

your mold so in a perfect world I would have some sulfur free like non dry clay

that I would put in the bottom here I'd put this on top and then I'd pour in my

mold making compound unfortunately kind of the theme of the episode today is I

don't have that so so if you imagine here if you imagine that I've completed

my mold and that I now need a pour pewter into the cavity of the mold I

want to have a funnel to pour the pewter into if possible you want that to be a

nice like good wide funnel to get as much metal in as you can to help fill

out all the little fiddly bits you know what actually now that I think about it

I'm I am I'm gonna have a mold where the funnel is flat on one side and then the

rest of the funnel is created upward and that's just gonna be what it's gonna be

not sorry about it so my little box here needs to not have any spaces there

because we're gonna fill that with mold making silicone later and I don't want

silicone dues out the sides time for some glue gunning

so we're going to try and glue these sides in it doesn't need to be pretty it

just needs to be sealed

on it Oh nope nope nope still not done literally waiting for glue to dry or

cool down in this place case okay we're starting to get someplace it's still a

warm but at least it's not falling apart so let's go ahead and give a try number

two

uh why get off me I seriously forgot how awful hot glue is

it's kind of the worst okay so this is very far from beautiful I'm gonna go

ahead and do the inner corners as well

okay so we have an awful silicone mold box now guys this is like SuperDuper a

lesson in how not to do this it's kind of ridiculous okay so I'm gonna do it

big blob the blue on the bottom there put it approximately there I'm doing it

off centered because I want to have lots of room for my eventual sprue here we go

I don't have very much of it but I've got a little bit of clay and I'm gonna

go ahead and use to make my sprue kind of as per our discussion earlier this is

basically what sprue looks like

so it's not pretty but it's a screw so I'm gonna try and oh god don't move just

stay where you are so in case you're wondering about these two glue buck lobs

there those are gonna become registration marks whenever we do the

other half of the mold all right so now comes the super exciting mold part so I

have not made a mold with the mold max three mold max sixty but from what I

understand it's supposed to be good for high heat products like casting and

pewter so in theory it's what I want so let's take a look

it comes in quite a big container shake well before using apparently this is the

compound and then instructions so let's take a quick look at that mix ratio 100

parts of a which I'm betting you yep is this big guy 100 parts of a buy three

parts of B by weight pot life of 40 minutes

okay so I have about forty minutes of working time which is plenty your time

is 24 hours so that means that I won't be messing with my mold again for a

whole nother day all right so now comes one of the really exciting parts we are

going to or our mold no pull tab okay oh okay so here's what this looks like

so I have a couple different ways that I could easily measure this out I'm gonna

start with 33 grams of the red stuff of Part A two one gram of Part B and see if

that's enough or whether or not I'm gonna need more to fill this little box

so we're gonna see what 33 grams looks like in here giving this a quick little

stir so this is zeroed out with my cup all right so let's just I guess start

start making it happen whew Wow so we are already at 33 grams

there's no way that that's enough so let's go ahead let's see take a look at

66 grams yep that's not enough we're just gonna

go all the way to a hundred because I think 100 might be enough for 95 we're

super close ninety-nine a hundred grams okay so we are all done with our hundred

parts of mold max sixty part a and we're gonna try adding those itty-bitty three

parts of 60 so I'm a little bit leery of my ability this is very liquidy to just

pour in only three grams of this so I've got this little bitty pipette which I'm

gonna use to drop drop my three grams in with Oh shake well let me listen to the

instructions Dean Oh God okay it's very blue oh and it smells okay let's pipe

out some here we go got my little pipette here full of blue

and I want to get this to 103

okay oh no oh no oh God it turned off okay that's not good well

I did one pipette full oh it's like not even registering this as there we go I

finally got it to one Oh nope it went back down to zero what the hell

oh God oh that was terrible okay nevermind it's

like it's kind of a waste of time to do the pipette thing Oh got and we found it

for okay well now it's back to three I don't know we are definitely more than

enough and I'm going to have to clean up all these little blue drops on my table

but first let's go ahead and get this monster done the instructions say to

stir this vigorously for three minutes so let's go ahead and get that going who

look cool me show you I've got kind of a swirly texture is this interesting stuff

okay let's go ahead and get that stirred in so here's my little mold and I'm oh

whoops then the blue stuff got on there oh well and I'm gonna pour it into the

corner here oh no that was way too much in one lump but oh well because I know

you you want to do it kind of like one continuous really thin pour so that it

pours around the rest of it without you introducing a bunch of air now a lot of

people will instruct you to use a vacuum to try and get out all of the bubbles in

the mold I don't have one so we're just not gonna do it okay so we are about

done so there we go my cup is empty we're gonna go ahead and

let this sit my beautiful mold here I can't really show you but we're gonna

let this hang out overnight and see what it looks like tomorrow all right so it's

the next day and this has had a more than 24 hours to go ahead and dry out

and become fully cured and hardened hopefully so I'm super excited to open

this up and see what we got okay come on open up

this might be where the experimental part of this coming in like maybe

silicone and 3d prints don't play nicely I don't know come on maybe it is time

for some tweezers so let me go get some so here's my crappy tweezers that I

don't really care very much about okay so all this this what I'm pulling off

right now that is the hot glue that I use to

secure my piece down to the cardboard originally so that is what's being

difficult here it has nothing to do with the silicone it's the hot glue trying

really hard to stick to the surface of the 3d print so now what I have to do it

decide whether or not I want to do a back piece like I kind of originally

planned or just run straight into front I admit I'm kind of tempted to be lazy

well adding a second piece is not going to improve how well it pours so you know

what let's go for it

all right so here's what it looks like once it's been pull out of my mold some

things I can already see that is a piece that probably should have stayed in my

mold so that is no longer going to cast as a hole on my my mold here since it's

ripped out I would recommend that if you were going to try doing something

similar to this you would definitely want to put your mold line right in the

middle of these loops instead of flush with the back end it would have been

better if I had done it in the middle of my pretty little loop sir oh well that's

okay this is just for funsies so here's what my mold looks like when all is said

and done it's pretty cool you can even see some of the little striation like

print marks in the mold itself which means that I bet you whenever we go

ahead and cast this in pewter we're probably going to also still be able to

see those print mark striations which isn't exactly a perk if you're trying to

go for a historical jewelry obviously they wouldn't have had print marks but

that is light it's just cool it's so neat the next up we're gonna want to

cast pewter into our big old sprue there but I'm gonna need a backing plate I

have a bunch of options that I could use I will probably go for wood since

usually you want to go ahead and back this side of a mold with wood as well

you don't want this flexing at all as you're pouring so I'm also going to

clean up some of these uh kind of raised edges so I have a nice flat surface to

deal with so I'm gonna do that real quick

all right I am just simply too impatient to wait I'm gonna try and see if I can

get this guy to cast at all with my current molten pewter so I'm just going

to use the back of one of my other molds as I mentioned before I really should

have a whole nother hard piece here on the back to help prevent my thumb from

distorting the design but hopefully we can get away with it anyway takes a

second for it to cool down enough to harden let's see what we've got

oh it filled in really well like there's a hole near the bottom there but it is

mostly filled in let's take a look oh

that is pretty cool now this is a far from perfect mold considering I kind of

messed up a few processes and making it there's obviously a lot of texture here

that I wouldn't consider to be super desirable but it's kind of the nature of

the game when it comes to 3d printing so I'm gonna do a couple more casts and see

what they all look like

hmm they're becoming more and more discolored over time that's an

interesting development that was lots of fun guys and I now have the answer to my

experiment which is yes you totally can make a mold of a plastic

3d print and then cast pewter into that mold which is really neat it's got it's

got some good heft it's amazing because the original plastic is just so light in

comparison so here in the light you can see my little pewter results here

obviously as I mentioned before a lot of texture on these guys and that can be

fine if that's what you're going for or if it doesn't hinder your project I'm

getting a lot of discoloration here from the pewter I'm not sure if that's

because I'm overheating it or what I also don't remember why that happens

I'll have to go look it up it's been a while since I've done pewter stuff so

this is messy but that is totally because I got lazy with my mold making

this was only for like funzies experimentations sake definitely some

improvements that could be made if I were to do an actual project with this

but mostly it's just kind of really exciting to see that it can be done and

to get a sense of what it would look like and what I would do to make it

better next time so hopefully that helps any of you that

might be considering something similar if you have any questions do post them

below and I will get back to you as quick as I can

For more infomation >> How to Make a Silicone Mold and Cast Pewter! - Duration: 21:33.

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How To Make A Short Film As A Writer - Duration: 2:08.

For more infomation >> How To Make A Short Film As A Writer - Duration: 2:08.

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[WancoBeads] How to make facedog Shih tzu - Duration: 15:48.

Beads abacus 4mm brown 27 Beads abacus 4mm transparent 16 Beads round 4mm black 3 Nylon string 0.23mm(dia.) 90cm 1

At first, Add 5 beads(transparent, transparent, transparent, transparent, black) to red nylon string

It crossed in the last addition beads(black)

The number of beads that are in a ring is 5

Add 3 beads(brown, transparent, brown) to blue nylon string, It crossed in the last addition beads

The number of beads that are in a ring is 4

Pick up 1(transparent) in blue

Add 3(brown, black, transparent) to red, cross

The number of beads that are in a ring is 5

Pick up 1(transparent) in red

Add 3(transparent) to blue, cross

ring (5)

Pick up 1(transparent) in blue

Add 3(transparent) to red, cross

ring (5)

Pick up 2(transparent, brown) in red

Add 2(black, brown) to blue, cross

ring (5)

Add 3(brown, brown, transparent) to red, cross

ring (4)

Pick up 1(transparent) in red

Add 3(transparent) to blue, cross

ring (5)

Pick up 1(brown) in blue

Add 2(brown) to red, cross

ring (4)

Pick up 2(black, transparent) in red

Add 2(brown) to blue, cross

ring (5)

Pick up 2(transparent) in blue

Add 3(brown) to red, cross

ring (6)

Pick up 3(transparent, black, brown) in red

Add 1(brown), cross

ring (5)

Pick up 1(brown) in red

Pick up 2(brown, transparent) in blue

Add 1(brown), cross

ring (5)

Pick up 1(transparent) in red

Pick up 4(brown, brown, brown, transparent) in blue, cross

ring (5)

put the ear

Pass the red nylon string to the position of the ear

Pass the blue nylon string to the position of the ear

Add 5(brown) to red

Make a ring with 5 beads from the tip

Add 1(brown) to red, put the right ear

Pass the nylon string to the position of the behind head

Add 5(brown) to blue

Make a ring with 5 beads from the tip

Add 1(brown) to blue, put the left ear

Pass the nylon string to the position of the behind head

Tie the nylon string

After connecting, through the nylon string to 2 or 3 beads

Cut a little pull state the nylon string

It was completed

Use 3mm of Swarovski beads

For more infomation >> [WancoBeads] How to make facedog Shih tzu - Duration: 15:48.

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How To Make A Custom Glitch Effect In After Effects - Duration: 9:33.

Hey, what's up everyone?

This is Owen with Motion Array and in today's tutorial I'm going show you how to make

a glitch effect.

There's a lot of ways to achieve these types of effects but the great thing about this

technique is that it's all driven by things in After Effects so you don't need to source

footage.

Alright, let's get started. 

I'm going make a new composition and I'll call it "Glitch Effect".

Then, I'm going to make a text layer and I'll just type in "Glitch".

I'll center this text to my composition with the options in the "Align" panel...

and now I'll precompose my text layer by going to "Layer > Precompose".

I'll name this "Type" and then I'll hit okay. 

Now I'm going to set up my RGB channels so that I can separate them out while glitching.

So with the pre comp selected I'll go to Effect > Channel > Shift Channels.

Then I'm going to duplicate my "Type" pre comp twice so that I have three copies of

it.

You can duplicate with CMD + D on the keyboard.

Now I just need to go into the Shift Channels effect on each layer and change some settings.

On my top layer in the "Take Red From" drop down I'll select "Red".

Then for the Green and Blue drop downs I'll select "Full Off".

This leaves just the red channel.

Now I'm going to repeat the process on the other two layers but one will be green and

the other blue….

The last thing I need to do is set the blending mode to Add on all three layers. 

Okay, so rather than hand keyframe the position of these three layers to simulate the RBG

separation, I'm going to add an expression.

To set this up I'm going to create a new Null by going to Layer > New > Null Object.

I'm going to change the name to "Wiggle CNTRL"…

And then I'm going to go to Effect > Expression Controls > Slider Control.

Now you'll see I have this effect with a single value in it.

If I change the value, nothing happens because I still need to link the position of my 3

layers to it.

So I'll lock the Effect Controls panel so that when I deselect my null it's effects

are still accessible.

Then I'll go to on of my type layers and pull up it's position with P on the keyboard.

Then I'm going to "Option" click on the stop watch so I can add in an expression.

I'll type "wiggle(20," and then I'll grab the pick whip and drag it up to the Slider

Control value.

That adds that value into my expression.

Now I'll close my parentheses.

So to explain this a little more clearly, the wiggle expression randomly changes your

values.

The first value I typed, 20, is how many times per second it changes your value.

The second value, which in our case is linked to the slider control, is how much it will

change your value.

So right now the slider control's value is 0 so nothing is happening...

But if I change that slider's value you'll start to see some separation...

Now I need to add the wiggle expression to my other two type layers.

To do this I'll highlight the Position property on my layer that already has the expression,

then I'll go to Edit > Copy Expression Only.

Then, I'll pull up the position of my other two type layers, highlight their position,

and then I'll paste with CMD + V. 

Now let's place a few keyframes on our Wiggle Cntrl.

I'll move my playhead to 1 second, set the value of the slider to 1, and I'll click

the stopwatch to set a key frame.

I'm also going to unlock my effects control panel so it's not stuck on my slider control.

I'm going to add the rest of my keyframes in the timeline.

To access all the keyframes on a selected layer you can hit U on the keyboard.

So I'll do that, and now I have access to my slider control in my timeline.

I'll move my playhead 5 frames ahead and change my slider's value to… let's say

40.

Yeah, that looks good.

I'll go 5 more frames ahead and bring the value back down to one.

With these keyframes our separation will animate in and out. 

Now I'll add in some distortion.

I'll start by creating a new adjustment layer by going to Layer > New > Adjustment

Layer.

I'll change the name to Glitch.

Then, with that layer selected I'll go to Effect > Distort > Wave Warp.

In my Wave Warp effect I'm going to change the Wave Type to Noise.

Then I'll change my direction to 0 to get the distortion to be horizontal.

I'm also going to crank up my wave width to 4000.

This will give me some bigger pieces in the distortion.

With all that adjusted, I'm going to add some keyframes to the Wave Height.

I'm going to place them in the same spots as the Wiggle CNTRLs keyframes.

My first keyframe I'll set to 0.

Then 5 frames later I'll bump it up to 300 and for my last keyframe I'll end back at

0.

The last thing I'm going to do is add a wiggle to this Wave Height.

That way, I'll always have a little bit of movement in my type.

So I'll option click my stopwatch, and type "wiggle(10," … and then I'll pick

whip to the wiggle control slider and close the parentheses. 

What I want to do now is transition my text to say something else.

To do that, I'm just going to cut to a different text layer when my distortion is at it's

peak.

The peak of my distortion is at 1 second and 5 frames.

So I'll move my playhead there … and go into my Type pre comp by double clicking on

it.

Inside my pre comp I'm going to select my type layer.

Making sure that my playhead is in the correct spot, I'll go to Edit > Split Layer.

This splits the selected layer into two separate layers where the playhead is.

So I'll double click on the new text layer to highlight the text and then I'll type

in something else….

Alright now I'm going to head back in to the main comp. 

When I RAM preview now, it's look pretty much done.

We could stop here but I want to show you a few more techniques to really elevate the

effect.

The first thing I'm going to do is duplicate my Glitch adjustment layer.

With the duplicated layer selected I'll go into the Wave Warp controls and change

the Wave Width to 1500.

This will give me some variance in width in my distortion, rather than all of it being

the same size.

Next, I'll add a new adjustment layer.

I'll change it's name to Noise…

Then I'll go to Effect > Noise and Grain > Noise.

In the effect controls I'll change the amount of noise to 30%.

With the added noise, the look is really coming together.

The last thing I'm going to do is add in some tiny black lines to make it feel like

we're looking at the type through a screen.

So I'll create a new solid by going to Layer > New > Solid.

I'm going to make it black… and make sure it's Comp Sized…. then hit okay.

Then I'll go to Effect > Transition > Venetian Blinds.

In the effect controls I'll change the transition completion to 95%…. the direction to 90

degrees…. and the width to 5.

This will give me some nice, thin lines.

In the layer toggles I'll check this little box that has a T over it.

This is the "Preserve Underlying Transparency" toggle.

This means my black lines will only show up where the layers below it are.

And with that, I think we're done with the glitch effect. 

Before we wrap this thing up I want to mention that this effect isn't just for text.

You can apply this to footage or anything really.

Over in this other comp I have the exact same set up, I just put images in my pre comp,

rather than text and it's working great.

So you can see this is a really versatile effect. 

Well guys I hope you found this tutorial helpful.

If you did, there's plenty more tutorials for After Effects and Premiere over at MotionArray.com.

Thanks for watching and see you in the next video.

For more infomation >> How To Make A Custom Glitch Effect In After Effects - Duration: 9:33.

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How to make a Fwa clan | gods DNA - Duration: 3:06.

For more infomation >> How to make a Fwa clan | gods DNA - Duration: 3:06.

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Motor Club of America Money|How to Make MCA Sales|MCA FREE Advertising - Duration: 9:26.

Hi Its Candice with Motor Club of America money and Kings Prosper Network

Thanks for joining me today to learn about making money with MCA

When you joined Motor Club of America you wanted to make money. That is the main reason why people become MCA Associates!

But when you're just starting up your MCA Business you may not know where to get those leads and maybe your budget is tight.

Rather than spend money on paid advertising when you first start your business you can do some free MCA advertising on social media!

Make posts about MCA as to the services they offer and also about the business opportunity on social media platforms. This gives you FREE MCA advertising!

Put your Motor Club of America posts on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, etc. There are so many more social media platforms on which you can advertise.

Get MCA Business Cards and Flyers made (you can print these at home on your printer to save money) and take them with you wherever you go!

Take your MCA membership card with you. Talk to people when you're out. Post your flyers at any public place (that allows you to hang up your flyer, of course).

The possibilities are endless as to where you can advertise for FREE! Think outside the box! And don't give up!

Success is the sum of small efforts repeated day in and day out! So keep on going!