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Hey guys, thanks for stopping by the Detail Garage.
Javier and I have been getting a lot of questions about detailing or our personal lives, we
thought today would be a good time to take some of those aside and answer your questions.
Also, maybe bring in some new questions.
Before we continue, don't forget to like this video, subscribe, and also comment down below
on things that we didn't cover and things you want to know about.
Javier, let's get started.
Josh Cordova asks: Can you guys go more in-depth about Carbon Flex C9?
Is it a ceramic coating?
Can you apply multiple layers?
Exactly, what is it?
Does it add extreme shine or just added protection?
Or if it isn't ceramic coating, do I need to purchase something else?
He has a lot on his mind.
Take it away, No you take it away, I asked the question.
You're giving me a tumor, you know that right?
Why?
Was it a bad question?
Answer the question!
Alright Josh.
Well, Carbon Flex is a protective coating, so it is a coating.
You're correct on that one, but you could add multiple layers but you want to do that
after you polish.
A coating like C9 lasts up to 3 years so you want it to be as perfect as possible.
You definitely want to do the whole shabang.
You want to wash it, clay it, get rid of all the contamination on the surface to get it
smooth.
When you polish it, you get rid of all the scratches and the swirls, then you add your
C9 to get that level of protection.
You then want to top it off with a glaze, or even a sealant and get that shine from
a wax.
It's definitely a coating and you want to add before a wax and JetSeal, but after a
polish.
Muhammad Kabir asks: Can we polish a car in cold weather or what temperature should we
polish in?
That's a good question.
A lot of the time, when you're working in detailing situations, you're not going to
have a perfect temperature.
We recommend always polishing indoors because then you can have the most control over temperature
at least and being too cold isn't really a problem but being too hot is.
If the surface is hot, it could effect the chemical, it could dry out, which can cause
the product not to diminish properly, which wouldn't give you proper results.
Being too cold isn't really an issue but being too hot is.
We have another one, it's from Deez Nutz and it actually does say deez nuts.
It says, Javier, your socks are fresh to death.
I agree!
You've seen my socks are pretty damn fresh.
Fresh is a loose term.
What about to die for?
Laz Par says: Reminded me of the potter scene in the movie Ghost.
I think they're referring to the rotary polish where I couldn't really do it and you had
to help me out
and you grabbed my hand so it's like (hums "Take My Breathe Away from the movie Top Gun,
Not Ghost).
And we're moving on.
The Fast Gunna says: What do you guys recommend for headlights that are just starting to oxidize,
like they're just barely starting to.
Well, if it's barely starting to oxidize you don't need to go all heavy with the sanding
with the different grit, you can just use like the one-step polish, headlight restoration
or V36.
It's best to polish it now and seal it.
This will prevent it from getting worse and if you don't have access to a polisher, at
least give it some kind of wax just so it doesn't get completely oxidized.
You don't want to wait until it's too far gone and you can't even get it back, sometimes
you can't even get it back.
Like your relationship.
Ohhh, what time is your mom off?
Son of a bleep!
I'm gonna punch you right in the baby maker.
Owen Mowry says: How do I avoid creating holograms?
This is your expertise.
How do we avoid those holograms?
Man, holograms dude.
Well, you definitely want to keep it level.
What my colleague is trying to say is holograms are created when the pad isn't completely
flat on the surface.
When you have it at an angle or an edge, this creates a hot spot along the edge of the pad
and this creates marring as you're polishing.
Keep it nice and flat with some nice pressure on there to get the best results.
You also don't want to get tiger stripes either so you want to go halfway of what you did
before.
50% of your last pass, that will give you a uniform shine.
You're alright there, buddy?
Yea, it's just hot in here.
Robert Drouin: How do you do an inspection before the detail if the vehicle is really
dirty?
Well, just like we've done before, we definitely want to wash the car.
That way you can truly inspect if it has any scratches or swirls or any imperfections on
the paint because when it's dirty, it's covered up with all the contamination and it covers
up the little things.
It's the little things that count, the details.
When you wash it, you wash it away all the filth and you get to reveal the real paint
that's underneath to see if it needs a detail.
Rosendo Velazquez asks: Where's Jen?
She's around.
She still works here.
Francisco Arroyo: Wait, so I can use Pete's 53 for my hair?
Save me a trip to the store!
It looks good Nick, I like your hair.
Yea, Pete's 53 works on your hair.
This is not recommended but sure, give it a shot.
Robert Navarro says: I have a quick question.
How do you get awesome suds like that?
What PSI is the pressure washer and what brand do you guys use?
I bought the Big Mouth Foam Cannon but I want to get suds like that so I want to know what
pressure washer will be the best.
What do we use a Troy Built gas pressure washer.
I mean, it doesn't really matter the brand, it's all in the gallons per minute and PSI.
We run pressure washer from about 2800 PSI to 3100 and about 2.4 GPM.
As long as it meets the requirements of your foam cannon, you're going to be good and you're
gonna get great results every time.
There's also little tips & tricks you can do like when Nick shows you, he doesn't shake
the bottle because you'll create the foam inside.
You want to do it gently.
Also, using warm water helps with agitating of the soap.
Just the little things.
If you just want more, just add another ounce of soap.
The more soap, the more foam.
What am I doing wrong if the TORQ 10FX is spitting polish every where?
You don't know?
Pshh some kind of detailer
What am I doing wrong if the TORQ 10FX is spitting polish every where?
Usually what this means is that there is too much product on the pad and also spinning
at a high rate and what you need to do is either back off on your polish or blotch it
out more before you're actually polishing and bumping to the highest speed setting.
This should reduce the amount of that.
Also, add a little water to your pad or pad prep, that should help it from doing that.
Adrian De La Rosa: How often should the polishing pads be replaced and how often should a car
be polished?
Honestly, it depends on the car.
You want to do once a year, possibly maybe twice a year if need, but you kind of don't
want to do it because every time you polish you take a little layer of the clear coat.
You get closer and closer to the paint.
Here's the thing.
A polish can last a year, a month, it can last a day, it lasts until the next time you
touch it because that's the only real way a car gets scratches and swirls is from washing
it and drying it.
If you don't touch the car, you don' t need to polish it as often.
As for polishing pads to be replaced.
You can honestly do a whole car with just one pad.
We get that question a lot too.
"How many pads do I have to use for one car, I have a big car".
How many panels?
You can use one pad for each car.
Thebaz568: If I just went straight into V32, v34, v36, then V38, would that be a problem?
I have some deeper scratches and I want to remove them, could this damage the paint?
Just like everything, it depends on the car.
Some scratches are too deep, you can't really cut through it.
You might have to wet sand it or even get deeper than that or some are just too far
gone.
You definitely want to test it out on an inconspicuous area to see if it's even needed because some
areas don't even need a V32, you just need a V36 or a V38, but definitely we say try
it on an inconspicuous area first before you go straight to V32 because then you could
be doing more harm than good.
Plus, you don't want to do more work than you have to.
Exactly, save yourself time and effort.
Alrighty guys, again, if there's anything we didn't cover or there's questions you still
have, drop a comment below.
Don't forget to like and subscribe this video and we'll see you guys next time right here
at the Detail Garage.
Hey, you talked at a normal rate this time.
You think you're funny?
So we like to have a lot of laughs here at the Detail Garage, but I'm here to talk about
something serious.
Packs of wild dogs have taken over most of the major cities.
That's late night.
I've never done this before.
Time to go under the desk, Chippendale.
Ima get something from downstairs.
The frame ends right there, you know that right.
I'm a simple car guy.
In kindergarten, the asked you, what did you want to be when you grow up and kids said,
I want to be a firefighter, or an astronaut, or a police officer.
I said a car guy.
So I guess I made it.
Momma I made it.
So like a transformer?
Optimus Prime.
Isn't it funny that as soon as the camera comes on your brain goes completely dead.
It's not only when it's on.
I have a question: How come we never use those paint things to check the paint?
This interview is over, you promised you wouldn't bring that up.
Where's the rotors guy when you need him?
Do you really want to know why we don't use those paint gauges.
On a serious note, paint gauges, although great to tell you how far you have until metal,
they don't tell you how far you have until you hit clear coat, or from clear coat to
paint.
Say this is your clear coat and this is your metal, and you have a layer of primer and
everything else.
The measurement is only going to tell you from this point to this point, it's not going
to tell you all these other points.
There's multiple layers in your paint.
Dang, I'm going to stop taking Nyquil and I'm just going to listen to you talk.
Excuse me!!
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